In Praise of Pastrami: When Kosher Delis Were 'Secular Synagogues'

Instead of being a lament for a lost pastrami past, Ted Merwin's well-researched history of the iconic Jewish delicatessen is a serious meditation on American Jewish culture.

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“Pastrami on Rye: An Overstuffed History of the Jewish Deli,” by Ted Merwin, New York University Press, 245 pp., $26.95