On Hanukkah, Looking for Myself in the World's Oldest Ghetto

Back home in Melbourne, I tend to distance myself from the Jewish community. But on a winter's day in Venice, I sought out the smells and sounds that define who I am and where I belong.

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My Hanukkah in Venice began with a lukewarm, under-baked sufganiya that’s status as “chocolate flavored” came, apparently, from the daub of Nutella on its top. I had resisted panettone, biscotti and panforte...