Beef It Up: Nostalgia in a Soup Bowl

Winter here is airy and bright, just the time for slow-cooked soups full of fresh seasonings like cilantro and fennel.

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When the first few raindrops fall, I hurry to put the soup pot on the stove. My family has been in this dry, arid country for nearly a century now, but something in our genetics still yearns for a deep, white...