The view from the window is mind-boggling. Israeli flags – even more than one sees at the Kirya, army headquarters in Tel Aviv – an Israeli army outpost just few meters away, a beit midrash, the Beit Hadassah settlers’ enclave, countless security cameras and fences topped with barbed wire, a dense lattice of bars on windows to protect against Jewish attackers, and garbage and stones littering the street. This is a street of ghosts, most of whose residents have been forced to leave. The Palestinians’ so-called gold market lies in ruins and their produce market is covered with metal grilles to protect the few merchants and buyers from local settlers and their children from throwing garbage, and stones, down on them.
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