A tray of makruta cookies filled with rahat lokum (Turkish delight) from Umm Ali’s Jaffa deli. Dan Peretz

Not Your Mom’s Home Cooking on the Outskirts of Tel Aviv

A deli owned by Ali Sukar, a member of one of Jaffa's oldest families, offers a tremendous variety of dishes and pastries prepared by his mother; the Gorlov family, which immigrated from Ukraine, offers a taste of the old country in the Tel Aviv suburb of Bat Yam.

Umm Ali begins cooking for Friday on Thursday afternoon. Since her son Ali and her daughter Mai opened a delicatessen in Jaffa’s Ajami neighborhood, she cooks into the night every day of the week, but...

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