Al-Abed hummus, a dish of warm whole chickpeas with samna (clarified butter) and baharat – a spice mixture fragrant with cinnamon. Gil Eliahu

A Woman in a Man's World of Hummus

In local Arab culture, and also in Jewish-Israeli culture, hummus joints have long been considered male domains. Enter Arin Abu-Hamid Kurdi, the woman behind the blue hummus shop in Old Acre.

The blue hummus shop next to the lighthouse in Old Acre bears a man’s name – Al-Abed Abu-Hamid’s Hummus – but it’s a woman in an apron who stands behind the counter and makes the hummus. High above her head...

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