A Restaurant Guide’s Ethnocentric Take on Israeli Cuisine

Gault & Millau Israel is back after 15 years. Too bad the language is stilted, Arab restaurants are scarce, and kosher and Tel Aviv locales clog the pages

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The 2018 Gault Millau restaurant guide to Israel has chalked up a dubious achievement. It has laid bare the convoluted language that has become standard for the Israeli food world.