Mati Lendner. Grew up above the bakery, which has been producing challahs since 1893. Dan Peretz

The Baker and Oven Maker Behind Jerusalem's Perfect Challah

The Sephardim love a soft one, the Ashkenazim like it hard and the Hungarians prefer it blackened. Mysteries of the Shabbat bread are unraveled at the venerable Lendner bakery in Jerusalem.

Mati Lendner refuses to speculate on what will happen to the bakery that bears the family name when he passes away. His two sons aren’t planning to take over. “I’ll live forever,” says Lendner, with a...

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