Hushash, or bitter orange, growing in Tel Aviv. Dan Peretz

Adventures in Picking Forbidden Fruit on the Streets of Tel Aviv

Few people are familiar with the taste of bitter orange and the diverse uses of its juice, peel and flesh. This might be why pickers of the fruit arouse fury in Tel Aviv.

At 9 A.M. the pickers begin to gather at the bar in the Dok restaurant on Tel Aviv’s Ibn Gvirol Street. They drink a short espresso and exchange greetings with Yotam and Asaf Doktor, the owners of the Dok and...

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