Tel Aviv Eatery Serves Italian Food, Kibbutz Style

Café Italia serves simple and tasty food in large portions and at reasonable prices. So when did the New York-style brasserie drop the pretensions and become an eatery that’s more like a kibbutz dining hall?

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Time has been good to Caf Italia. Eight years ago, it looked like a brasserie with a modern New York vibe that aroused undue expectations. Now, especially during daytime hours, it feels like an upgraded...