Mixed Grills and Cheap Thrills at This Classic Tel Aviv Falafel Joint

Great falafel, decent schnitzel, fresh salads – Tel Aviv’s Falafel Gabay has all this, but the highlights are an authentic Jerusalem mixed grill and deep-fried ‘wonder balls’ that really live up to their name.

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Something bad usually happens to veteran Israeli street foods – falafel, shawarma, sabih, etc. – when they find themselves uprooted from simple street stalls and eateries, and are served instead in large,...