How Good Is 'The Best Hummus in the World,' Really?

The hummus at New York restaurant Dizengoff isn't as good as some critics say it is, but chef Michael Solomonov, who put Israeli cuisine on the map, is still a legend in his own time.

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It certainly never occurred to Meir Dizengoff, Tel Aviv’s first mayor, that one day his name would appear on a hummus joint at New York’s Chelsea Market. Actually, it’s named after him indirectly – it’s named...