On Buki Nae's guided Friday night tours of Tel Aviv, not only will you be treated to coverage of all seven deadly sins, you'll get a special bonus: Kiddush.
The traditional Sabbath blessing over the wine comes about an hour into Nae's tour of the city's historic crime scenes and its sex, drug, and gambling hot spots.
You won't find his group visits to the city's seamier side in a guide for tourists. That's the way Buki Nae likes it. The celebrated crime reporter for Israel's largest circulation tabloid Yedioth Ahronoth is notorious for his tales of Tel Aviv's sex and violence. Now, you no longer have to read all about it. For a fee of NIS 125, Buki Nae will put you there in person.
For Nae, there are no contradictions. After shocking and, in some cases, annoying local residents with his bullhorn-enhanced commentary ("Here are the whores!" he announces to his flock of some 50 Israelis, mostly Tel Aviv residents, to the horror of locals), he dons a kippah and intones the Kiddush blessing over the wine.
Then it's back to the action.
Nae brings his visitors to illegal casinos and brothels in the middle of Dizengoff and Allenby streets and a swingers' club fully equipped with S&M rooms. The tour ends at Tel Aviv's abandoned former central bus station in the wee hours of the night.
The tour group is varied. Young as well as middle-aged Israeli elite get a taste of Tel Aviv's underworld. Some are life-long Tel Aviv residents, who, for a night, become tourists of their own "White City."
"I've lived here my entire life and I never knew these things were happening right next door to me," says Mickey, 80, who, along with others on the tour, declined to give her full name.
"A friend told me about the tour. It's about what's really going on in Tel Aviv long after I've gone to bed," says Naomi, 50.
Nae's route veers away from that of more traditional tours, shunning Tel Aviv's prestigious offices, Bauhaus architecture, and gourmet restaurants.
The commentary is different as well. Participants may find it crude, bitter, and uncouth. Commenting on the ineffectiveness of local police, Nae points out a building on once-fashionable, now sleazy Allenby Street, noting that cops are well aware of its legal shortcomings. "On the first floor there's a restaurant, the second floor is a brothel, and the third is a casino. You eat, screw and then get screwed," he adds.
At various points, the group detours to hear some of the most graphic testimonies of Tel Aviv's night-time workers: a transvestite, an ex-thief, and a drug-abusing prostitute.
"No subject is taboo, and there is no room left for speculation," Ofer, 55.
Underground appeal It's not all crime and grime, there's sex too.
"Part of what makes it so interesting is that Buki actually takes you to an S&M club. I can't believe it's actually legal," Alon, 31.
Some see the tour as an opportunity for exposure. "I personally don't get any money from opening up the doors of the club to Buki's customers, but I do get good clientele when they return a few weeks later," remarks Roni, owner of a club called No Limit.
A prostitute, who identifies herself as Sarit, ("soon to be 39"), says that Nae pays her for speaking with the tour group. "It saves me having to fuck three men," she says. She adds that she needs to have sex with 40 men a day to pay for her heroin use.
Zalman Shoshi, famous for years in relatively conservative Israel as an unabashed cross-dresser, says that he's been working with Buki for years. Nae introduces him to the crowd as a "rehabilitated transvestite."
Shoshi, who now wears a kippah and, observing the Sabbath, takes the distance from his home to the meeting point on foot, shares with the crowd how he went from pedophilia victim to Tel Aviv transvestite, and now to Orthodox Jew.
For some who take the tour, it's a way to escape the routine of weekends at Florentine's indy art scene, or simply having a drink in one of the city's most popular bars. This tour offers an option for those who prefer taking an alternative, if voyeuristic route.
Not up for exhibition "I heard from my friend that this was a total MUST-SEE, and she was so right," remarks Adi, 25. "The reason it's so great is that it's only known by word of phrase.
But some locals find the tour offensive, voicing alarm at their becoming a profit-generating attraction
On a recent tour, Nae's enterprise sparked commotion among the many drug addicts and illegal migrant workers living at the old central bus station.
"Don't listen to Buki, he doesn't know us" one man yelled out. "You want to learn about me, come talk to me, Ill tell you firsthand."
Angry about Buki's antics, one onlooker actually struck Nae. He demanded that Buki leave the neighborhood along with his audience. The violent outburst culminated in police intervention.
Nae brushed off the incident and continued his tour casually. In the end, the tour guide left some tour participants riveted, and others fearing for their lives.
"It is a way to go into this world without really being a part of it," Ofer 55.