Doughs and Don'ts: The Jewish Roots of the Bagel

The bagel has been identified with the Jewish community as far back as the 12th century. A small family bakery in northern Israel still gives the bread the respect it deserves.

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The eye is immediately drawn to the huge stone oven, surrounded by brown bricks to insulate the searing heat roaring inside it most hours of the day. The heat source – blue-red gas flames (firewood in days...