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On my first trip to Krakow, more than a year ago, I was shocked to find crude anti-Semitic graffiti in a side-street adjacent to the river Wisla. “Anty-Jude” was scrawled in blue spray paint above an incomplete circle, inside which appeared to be a crossed-out Star of David. This was hardly the last graffiti of this kind I would see: just a few days ago I saw swastikas daubed on the train on...