Steaking a claim for ostriches

Recent studies reveal that ostriches (and a few other related species, like the Australian emu and the South African nandou), which have run madly across the earth's surface for 70 million years - and as many as 120 million years, according to some paleontologists - may be descendants of the dinosaurs. The ostrich's muscles, skull, beak, bone structure, arteries and even its style of movement and method of reproduction more closely resemble those of some dinosaurs than those of other avian species.

Those who judge animals by their culinary quality have been aware for some time that the ostrich is not a bird. Martine and Reginald Michiels, owners of Belgium's Pont D'amour ostrich farm, located in the splendid green area east of the Meuse River, are more interested in the way ostrich meat resembles finer cuts of beef. A tour of their gorgeous farm provides an opportunity to view the ostriches and some related species that usually live in other parts of the world at close range, before facing them on one's plate.

Among other things, visitors learn that the average ostrich egg weighs about 1.4 kilograms; its circumference is about 33 centimeters, and it is equivalent (in taste as well) to about 24 chicken eggs. Workers at the farm transfer the eggs to an incubation facility for a 40-day period, during which the temperature is maintained at 36.7 degrees Celsius and the humidity at 24 percent. Absolute sterility is ensured while the eggs are turned from one side to another, 12 times a day.

The remarkable eggshell has a thickness of more than one millimeter, yet it can bear a weight of 100 kilograms without cracking. The ostrich chick breaks the shell, over a period of two days, by tapping movements that use a special muscle in its neck, which has developed expressly for this purpose. The moment that it emerges from the egg, the chick begins its frantic race to grow in height: At 10 days, the chicks reach a height of 25 centimeters. At 11 weeks, they are moved to a large room in which they begin to engage in their favorite pastime: running. Adolescent ostriches quickly become one of the fastest animals on the planet. They can achieve a sprinting speed of 100 kilometers per hour or run continuously for three hours at a constant speed of 40 kilometers per hour.

Despite their frenetic activity, ostriches are highly alert animals that require only 70 minutes of sleep a day. The rest of the time, they graze or use their terrifying claws to hunt and consume snakes, frogs, mice and rats. They do not hide their heads in the sand as people seem to think, but do peck the earth in search of food.

"We are still recovering from bird flu," Martine Michiels explains near the end of the tour. "We now have only 160 ostriches on the farm. Of them, we keep 12 females and five males for reproductive purposes. We are waiting to see how things develop and the extent to which the industry will recover. There are 10 ostrich farms throughout Belgium, and this is the only one in which ostriches are raised outside."

"There is great demand for ostrich meat because it tastes better than beef, but is very low in cholesterol: only a fifth of a percent as opposed to 2.2 percent in beef," adds her husband and business partner, Reginald. "We sell all the meat we can raise to local restaurants, and save only a bit to sell on the farm to be eaten here or taken home. We also prepare our own franks, pate, terrine, confit, sausages - all made purely from ostrich meat, according to traditional recipes from the Ardennes [region] in which we are located."

"Handling ostrich meat is a highly specialized process," he adds. "There are parts best suited to the oven, meat for skewers, and cuts for the frying pan - but the carving is not similar to that of any other animal. The cut called 'ostrich steak' is considered the qualitative equivalent of a fillet of beef and the cut called 'fillet' is even better."

Reginald finds similarities in the butchering process used for ostriches to that used for chickens - particularly kosher ones: "We slaughter the ostriches using the same method used to slaughter kosher chickens, by cutting the main artery. The European system of putting an animal to death by means of electric shock or a nail gun is not good for the animal or the meat, which contracts and becomes tough in response to killing."

Before leaving us, he provides an additional tip: "It is important to prepare the meat itself without salting [one can add salt at serving time, if desired]. Cooking methods and integration of flavors can be borrowed from beef, which is the type of meat that most closely resembles ostrich."

In the absence of ostrich, one can use beef steaks to produce the following recipes, but the result will be less subtle.

Ostrich fillet in raspberry vinegar and honey

It is important to cook this fine cut of meat only until rare or medium rare. The sweet-and-sour glaze complements the ostrich fillet and goes very well with potatoes or cooked vegetables. The following recipe serves four.

4 ostrich fillets, 180-200 grams each, at room temperature

black pepper, ground coarsely

4 tablespoons raspberry vinegar

2 tablespoons honey

2 tablespoons butter

Season both sides of the fillet with the black pepper. Do not salt. Use a whisk to mix the raspberry vinegar and honey in a bowl. Heat a heavy skillet and when hot add the butter. When the butter begins to turn golden, add the fillets. Saute for 2-3 minutes, turn over, and saute another 2 minutes on the other side. Remove the meat from the skillet and set aside in a warm place. Pour the vinegar and honey mixture into the skillet and scrape the bottom with a wooden spoon. Bring to a boil and remove from heat. Drizzle sauce around meat and serve immediately with cooked vegetables, potatoes, or pasta.

Ostrich steak in green peppercorns and cream sauce

The refined sharpness of the green peppercorns may be fatal in large doses. It is therefore vital to first add them in moderation, taste, and add more as required. Peppercorns preserved in vinegar are soft, while dry peppercorns are hard and crunchy. Both are superb. The following recipe serves four.

4 ostrich steaks, 180-200 grams each, at room temperature

black pepper, ground coarsely

2 tablespoons butter

1 tablespoon whole, green peppercorns (or a mixture of green and red peppercorns), dry or preserved in vinegar

250 milliliters sweet cream

Season the ostrich steak with black pepper on both sides. Do not salt. Heat a heavy skillet and when it is hot melt the butter in it. When the butter begins to turn golden, add the steak and saute for 2-3 minutes. Turn over and saute 2 minutes on the other side. Remove the meat from the pan and set aside in a warm place. Add the green peppercorns and the cream to the skillet. Bring to the boil and cook until cream thickens slightly, about 2 minutes. Return steaks to pan and cook in the sauce for another minute. Transfer to a platter and serve hot. The steaks may be served with fries or baked potatoes and cooked vegetables.

doramg@haaretz.co.il