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One of the sights that comes into view as one flies into Eilat, seconds before landing, is the huge parking lot at the port. Light-colored, imported automobiles are neatly parked there, row after row after row, all covered in dust and looking like toys. That's what one sees when one's plane banks and comes in for a landing from the south at Eilat, that city that both belongs to and is separated from the rest of...