We climbed the hill. The chain of peaks and valleys is turning green this time of year, with patches of red anemones and cyclamens in the clefts of the rock, plowed and cleared wheat fields, harvested olive groves and a tiny flock of sheep nibbling the green grass. This could have been the landscape of an innocent and lovely land. At the top of the next hill, a white van containing settlers from the Givat Ronen...