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Yaqub Hiat rises early and puts on a first pot of coffee at 4:30 A.M. Even if he wanted to go on sleeping, the chorus of bulbuls and sparrows in the ficus tree outside his window starts its daily concert before dawn and makes a royal racket. Even his 86-year-old mother, who has lived with Yaqub and his wife Rada for the past two years in the house her son built in Kafr Rama, gets up and goes out to work her small...