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On Saturday night, you pile the family into the Mercedes and travel to Jaffa to eat at Zigel Hagadol. You sit at the table and drink a small glass of arak to wet your throat and whet your appetite. The arak leads to beer. The beer leads to whiskey. You cut a piece of the warm challah and put it into the plate with the olive oil and za’atar, so it can get moist and oily, and place a pickled lemon with lots of...