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At the first stall, the seller split a large fennel into quarters – as if it were a juicy apple – and served us the fresh bulb. It had been picked moments before, from the field behind him, and trailed an aroma of anise and earth. In the adjacent plot, his neighbor picked large bunches of lettuce, drops of dew still glistening on their green leaves. Then he went over to the lemon tree at the edge of...