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Matti Cohen enters the tiny, modest-looking teahouse whose entrance is hidden from view to passersby on the main street. “If my mother ever saw me eating vegan pea soup and sipping oolong tea flavored with orange peel from Taiwan, she’d cut me out of the will,” jokes the hefty fellow with a white, Bratslav-style skullcap who made aliyah to Jerusalem from Savannah, Georgia,...