How Traditional Ashkenazi Food Became Trendy - and Tasty - Again

Gefilte fish, tongue and other delicacies are being discovered by young Jews on both sides of the Atlantic.

The story begins with a plate of tongue, which may terrify people nowadays but its tenderness and delicate flavor were once favored by children and adults alike. We ate some at Cafe 48 in Tel Aviv after two or three other courses. One of them was a divine sweet cornbread with sour cream and red chili, perfect as a comfort food for a morning hangover. Yet the tongue managed to activate not only the taste buds and...