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Nineteen years ago, on February 25, 1994, Baruch Goldstein murdered 29 Muslim worshipers at the Tomb of the Patriarchs in Hebron and wounded dozens more. Today this cultish site is a kind of electronic military bastion in the heart of an ancient, ghost neighborhood abandoned by its Arab inhabitants − unimaginative and acrimonious amid barbed wire, tin fences and corroded barrels that scar its length and...