Istanbul on a Platter

Ground meat baked on dough is a common dish in Middle Eastern cuisines. The secret of the delicate Turkish version is yogurt.

Istanbul is set in a dreamy time. Our friend Jack, who lived there at the time we visited, led us among the stalls and restaurants and bars, and we followed obediently. In the mornings we marched down Istiklal Boulevard following the scent of baking bourekas and the drops of kaimak (Turkish whipped cream) which are served at breakfast with...