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Once in Sinai, we walked for days to reach the summit of Umm Shumar. Those were the final days of euphoria, when peace was still in the offing. Along the paths were some signs and ropes for climbers that had been left behind by Shaked, Maxi and Danny from the field school in Santa Katarina, and the beaches were still virgin for the most part, strewn with isolated straw huts. The sky shone with innumerable stars....