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On the wall of a building on Ha’aliyah Street in Tel Aviv someone has sprayed the words “Adorno was right” − a sort of mockery of the far-right slogan “Kahane was right,” which has gradually faded from the streets and has itself become a source of nostalgia. But I, were I younger and more energetic, would hop on a plane to Istanbul right now and spray the words “Ataturk was...