All Quiet on the Temple Mount - Though Not at the Western Wall

The silence outside the Dome of the Rock, the noisy bar mitzvahs at the Kotel, the erasure of Muslim history at the City of David - a visit to the holiest places in the Holy Land.

By 9 A.M. the bar mitzvah processions were marching in force. I returned to the Western Wall plaza six times that day and each time I could hear the drums and dancing. The bar mitzvah boy, typically embarrassed and wearing a white shirt, proceeds under a white canopy, around which dance his family and two drummers/singers. A bearded young man proceeds them, trying to get the stunned bar...