A rather more upscale restaurant in Kerem Hateimanim.
A rather more upscale restaurant in Kerem Hateimanim. Photo by Tomer Appelbaum
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In between the hustle and bustle of the Carmel market, the car horns blaring on a busy Allenby St. and the relative quiet of Geula St. which leads down to the sea, you’ll find the Kerem Hateimanim neighborhood. This predominately residential area, which translates to "Yemenite vineyard," was established at the turn of the 20th century by Yemenite Jews who had just arrived in Israel. It retains its authentic vibe to this day, despite the inevitable, gradual gentrification.

It’s well worth a visit just to soak up the Levantine atmosphere and stroll through an area of the city that (so far at least) is almost high-rise free. One major draw is the food – the Kerem (as it’s colloquially known) has some of the best hummus joints in the city, with a plethora of cozy family run places dotting its narrow streets, especially around Yihye Kapah St.

Try mixing up your usual hummus order: instead of opting for the regular variety ask for the komplet – a plate of hummus and ful (hot fava bean paste) with a hard-boiled egg on top. Avoid Friday evenings and Saturdays in the Kerem, as this predominately religious neighborhood goes from sleepy to dead and you’ll have to leave without being fed.