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In ancient times in the Middle East, most cakes and desserts were made from semolina, which was then the dominant flour, the yield of the milling of hard durum wheat. In the early stages of milling durum, endosperm granules called semolina fall away from the wheat kernels and are separated by skilled hands. What is left of the kernels is ground into white flour. Semolina was used to make hot porridge with milk,...