The Seedy Side of Israel's Beloved Watermelon

There’s nothing like cold watermelon in the summer, especially during a painful summer like this one. But why is this iconic treat so pricey?

Nighttime in Tel Aviv. Unspeakable mugginess at the pool on the roof of the Marina Hotel, feet immersed in water, elevator music in the background. I’m torn between two items on the menu: watermelon soup for 38 shekels ($11), and watermelon with salted cheese for 32 shekels ($9.25). The waitress informs me they’re out of soup.