Oodles of Noodles in Tel Aviv

After playing it safe with pad thai for years, Tel Aviv’s restaurants are finally daring to prepare Asian noodles in all their multifaceted glory.

Noodles are a staple of East Asian food, serving alongside rice as one of the cuisine’s great facilitators. Much like bread in Italy, noodles in East Asia bring together ingredients – like vegetables, meat and seafood –  that would otherwise have few interesting things to say to each other. The greatness of noodles lies partly in their diversity. They come in countless shapes and sizes, from...