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The entrance to the Israel Philatelic Service’s building, appropriately located on Hadoar ‏(The Post‏) Street in Jaffa, resembles a fortified compound. Seated behind the glass partition is a guard who joylessly takes my ID card and exchanges it for a visitors’ badge. “Wait here for someone to come and escort you. No one walks around this building on their own,” he says.

The atmosphere is...