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The asphalt on the Petroleum Road in the center of the Golan Heights is full of holes and cracks. I drive slowly on the crumbling road, circumvent the Nafah Camp and advance southward until I arrive at a small monument in the shade of a tree to the right of the road. On my left, a column of tanks is raising clouds of dust. In the background you can hear the sounds of artillery fire. I wonder if the shots are...