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Where God-fearing Gourmands Can Eat in Jerusalem

In the second on this three-part series on the food of Mea She'arim, a spotlight on the Ashkenazi stews and savory dishes of Jerualem's Haredi heart.

The gefilte fish is hot, like a meatball. This is not how it is supposed to be, and I apologize to the Italian friends who have joined me for lunch at...