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Gaza City: Where the traffic jams smell like falafel
By Catrin Ormestad
Tags: Gaza, Israel, Fuel, Hamas

The atmosphere was tense when the Erez crossing opened again on Monday, and foreign aid workers, journalists and some Palestinians needing medical care began to cross in and out of Gaza. Entry into Israel was limited to a few hours in the morning and afternoon, and nobody would approach the border without clearance from the Palestinians who coordinate with the Israelis.

At the scene of last Thursday's attack the repair work was underway. The Islamic Jihad suicide bomber who blew up a truck loaded with four tons of explosives injured no Israelis, but he did destroy some of Gaza's main power lines. Unintentionally, according to the organization's spokesman. Two of the seven "feeders" from Israel were cut and 200,000 people in northern Gaza were left without electricity or running water.

Workers in red vests were now fixing the cables. A section of the concrete walls of the crossing's "sleeve" were also shattered in the blast, and the remaining parts are black. On our way from Erez we pass the burned remains of the jeep that was supposed to have participated in the attack.
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But the circle of violence is not the main topic of conversation this day in Gaza ¬ the fuel shortages are. For 20 days, our driver M. filled up his tank with olive oil. The stench was terrible but his old Mercedes didn't seem to mind. Until one day the car wouldn't start, and M., fearing that the strange diet would damage the engine, now queues for diesel like everyone else.

Practically all the gas stations are closed, and at the few open the line of cars and trucks snakes its way around the block. Of course, there are no guarantees that there will still be fuel when they reach the pump. Before the Israeli withdrawal the Gazans used to wait at checkpoints; now they wait in line for fuel or cooking gas.

At a gas station not far from Erez, a few men with jerricans gather around a pump. Our drivers excitedly pull over. Is it possible? It turns out that the station really does have some diesel, but only for agricultural workers. The fuel in Gaza is rationed twice, first by Israel, then by Hamas. Taxi drivers and owners of utility vehicles get coupons that entitle them to 20, 40 or 80 liters every five days, depending on the car's size.

Owners of private vehicles have to manage with the smelly Egyptian diesel, which is smuggled through the tunnels and costs NIS 25 per liter in the black market. Or do like M. and fill the tank with cooking oil. Gaza City's traffic jams smell like falafel.

"There is fuel in Gaza! Why don't you tell her the truth?" a gas-station manager suddenly cries out. "Who is responsible for the siege? Hamas!"

The manager claims they have had diesel for days, but that they had to wait for a phone call from Hamas before they could sell it. Hamas denies this, but judging from their PR campaign in Gaza City they seem concerned about their eroding grassroots support.

Posters with pictures of happy people and a Hamas soldier who escorts a child across the street have been pasted on the walls of the Saraya, the dreaded prison and headquarters for their special forces. The slogans are written in English and Arabic: "Our duty is to serve you." "For a secure community." "Our hands are clean and white." They even support "freedom of the press".

Cooking gas is also scarce in Gaza. The street vendors boil their falafel balls and corncobs on open fires. At the gas distribution center in Gaza City hundreds of young men have lined up, sitting on empty gas canisters. Yusuf Salah from Jabalya has been waiting for three days. For three weeks his wife has been cooking on wood fires. He blames Hamas for the situation, but also Fatah, for their failure to form a unity government.

The blockade has also put many entrepreneurs out of business, worsening unemployment and poverty. Recently, bakeries across Gaza City were closing for lack of electricity. Some are still closed, but the Shanti bakery in Gaza City is open.

The owner, Misbah al-Shanti, has been in business for 20 years, and he says he has never experienced such hard times. People have less spending power and everything is more expensive, including his bread. Shanti now charges half a shekel for a bun sprinkled with sesame seeds, instead of a quarter before the blockade. Several times a week he has to close the bakery because of the power cuts. But he too uses cooking oil not only in the dough, but for the generator and car; somehow he has managed to stay in business. "How else would people get bread?"

The blockade has also brought the entire water and sewage system near collapse. Since January, an average of 50 million liters per day of untreated sewage has flowed into the sea. The Coastal Municipalities Water Utility (CMWU) is Gaza's biggest electricity consumer, but the frequent power cuts have forced it to rely on generators run on diesel.

To operate their wastewater treatment facilities they need at least 150,000 liters of fuel per month. But between January and April they received a mere 70,000 liters. They also suffer from a shortage of pumps, spare parts and cement, materials which Israel no longer allows in.

On the beach by the Nusseirat refugee camp, a lagoon of oily, black water has formed in the white, silky sand. The wastewater spills into the sea from a sewage lake on the crowded camp's outskirts. The stench is almost unbearable, and the beach is empty. Only a few kilometers up the coast we can see Ashkelon. Munther Shoblak, CMWU's general manager, no longer lets his children go into the sea.

International and Palestinian health-care organizations have for months warned about a health disaster in Gaza. Tests have confirmed that the seawater is contaminated with dangerous levels of bacteria. But the sewage crisis also threatens Israel. The current heads northward; eventually the contaminated water will reach Ashkelon and Tel Aviv. An epidemic is a real possibility, Shoblak says. "Just imagine if someone has cholera or typhoid, and they flush the toilet."

But he says the supply of drinking water is an even more urgent issue. Many households in Gaza only have access to running water a few hours a week. "Go to the north and ask for how long they have not received any water," he says. "They will tell you five days, seven days, two weeks."

What about the tahadiyeh, the cease-fire? Could it improve the situation, ease the sanctions? "Look, I don't make political statements, but any cease-fire, if respected by both parties, will be a great help for us to provide for our population: to give water to our children and avoid an environmental disaster, which we face every day," he says.

"Each day when I come home I thank God that nobody died today because of the sewage. But still, when I hear that people have not received water for days I can't look in the mirror. It is my responsibility."

The key point, Shoblak says, is that as long as the Palestinians must rely on Israel they will never have a functioning civil infrastructure. The Gazans should have the option to bring in necessities from another country. Egypt would be the obvious choice. "Until then we will probably continue dumping raw sewage in the sea."

In the Gaza port the fishermen also suffer from the pollution. The sewage gives them rashes on their hands and legs, and they no longer let their children into the water. They sit in the shade, idle. Wednesday they didn't catch any fish. They are also entitled to fuel coupons, but their rations hardly last a day.

And even when they do have diesel for their boats, the fish they catch are no longer safe to eat. Palestinian health officials have urged them not to fish near the shore, but the Israelis won't let them go further out than three sea miles. So the only fish that come into the port these days are those that died from the pollution. Desperate Gazans collect the dead fish that drift in with the sewage and sell them as fresh.

The fishermen mainly hold their politicians responsible for the situation. Hamas takes care of their own people, they don't lack anything, and Fatah takes care of theirs, but who cares about the fishermen, bakers and taxi drivers?

"Who has the sanctions hurt but us?" asks Ramadan Abu Amira and hugs his grandson Mohammed.



Related articles:
  • Gazans fear for their health as they turn to cooking oil to power cars
  • Woman killed, two wounded in Qassam rocket strike on Sderot
  • Israel and PA: Hamas seizing half of all fuel sent to Gaza Strip
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