Wine and Spirits / Big, bold and simply the best - Restaurants - Israel travel and tourism

Wine snobs, whether in California or in Israel, love nothing better than to boast about the great wines they found in small cult wineries. One of the reasons they enjoy boasting so much is that those wines often cost outrageous sums of money. In addition, they enjoy little more than saying how the big wineries have failed us by producing mediocre wines that cannot possibly be enjoyed by those with "sophisticated palates." All of which is, of course, patent nonsense; at least some of the large wineries continue to produce the very best wines. Two recent releases from the Golan Heights Winery demonstrate this nicely: Their 2004 Syrah and Merlot releases from the Ortal vineyard are among the best wines ever made in Israel.

Golan Heights Winery, Syrah, Ortal Vineyard, Yarden, 2004: Extraordinarily deep ruby, full-bodied, with near-sweet tannins integrating nicely with spicy wood. Opens with a burst of almost jammy aromas of raspberries and kirsch liqueur, which yield beautifully to blackberry, cherry and plum fruits. In the background, generous hints of anise and Oriental spices and a hint of freshly tanned leather. Approachable and enjoyable now but best 2010-2016, perhaps longer. NIS 150. Score 94. K

Golan Heights Winery, Merlot, Ortal Vineyard, Yarden, 2004: Dark garnet to inky black, full-bodied, with once firm tannins and generous spicy wood (the wine was aged mostly in new French barriques for 17 months) integrating nicely now. Opens to reveal a tempting array of blackberry, raspberry, plum and cassis fruits, which are supported nicely by hints of smoky cedar wood and chocolate, all leading to a gently spicy and notably long finish. Simultaneously complex, concentrated and elegant. Approachable now but I suggest giving the wood a bit more time to settle down. Best 2010-2018. NIS 150. Score 93. K

Castel, Grand Vin, 2005: Showing dark garnet, with still firm tannins integrating nicely now with spicy and smoky oak. Opens slowly in the glass to show a nose and palate of blackcurrant, blackberry and purple plum fruits on a background of generous Mediterranean herbs and near-sweet tobacco. On the long finish: hints of citrus peel, anise and dark chocolate. Approachable on release but best 2010-2014. NIS 200. Score 92. K

Petit Castel, 2006: On the green and herbal side, with cedary oak and tobacco flavors holding back dried currant, blackberry and sage notes. Ends with a dry-tannic finish. Perhaps better with time so try again in another year or so. Score 86. NIS 115. K

"C", Chardonnay, Blanc du Castel, 2006: Deep golden in color, reticent on opening, with aromas and flavors hidden for at least 10 minutes and then showing a rather heavy hand with oak and on that more of buttery hazelnut, nutmeg, golden raisin and floral notes than of the fresh and lively fruits and the complexity that usually typify this wine. Full-bodied and concentrated but lacking vibrancy. Drink now-2010.NIS 135. Score 86. K

Amphorae, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2004: Deeply aromatic, full-bodied with firm tannins, showing fine balance and structure. On the nose and palate: blackberries, currants and black cherries, which are off-set by mocha, vanilla and spicy oak. Drink now-2010. NIS 115. Score 91.

Amphorae, Merlot, 2004: Garnet to royal purple, medium- to full-bodied, with firm tannins integrating nicely with generous wood, all coming together with purple plum, raspberry and briar notes, all lingering nicely with a tantalizing hint of bitter herbs that rise on the finish. Drink now-2011. NIS 85. Score 90.

Amphorae, Med.Blend, 2004: A first release and not to be confused with the Red.Med blend of the winery. A blend of 56% Cabernet Sauvignon and 22% each of Syrah and Merlot, aged in French oak for 14 months showing medium- to full-bodied, with soft, gently mouth-coating tannins and a well-measured hand with spicy oak. On first attack: red currants and wild strawberries, those leading to bitter cherries, tobacco and appealing herbal overtones. On the long finish: tantalizing hints of bay and anise. A wine that demands a fine T-bone, Porterhouse or sirloin steak. Drink now-2010. NIS 65. Score 90.

Amphorae, Ryhton, 2004: A blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Syrah and 10% Merlot, dark garnet, medium to full-bodied, with distinctly Provencal aromas and flavors of wild berries and cassis matched by hints of fresh mushrooms and spices. A few sharp edges add to the wine's country-style charm. Drink now-2009. NIS 80. Score 88.