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Wine and Spirits / Revolution in Champagne Country By Daniel Rogov Tags: vineyards, israel, vignerons Starting nearly 20 years ago, a mini-revolution began in Champagne when grape growers started to hold back some of their grapes from the large Champagne houses, and started making their own wines. They had two major goals - the less noble being to make more money selling wines than merely selling grapes, and the more noble being to produce artisanal wines of sometimes remarkably high quality that would allow the grower-winemakers to feel pride in their product. About a decade ago those small-grower Champagnes began to catch on in France, more recently they made it to the United States and the United Kingdom and now, lagging not far behind, Israel. So popular have these wines become that a certain amount of hype has developed about them - largely to denigrate the Champagnes of great houses such as Krug, Veuve Clicquot, and Moet & Chandon as being nothing more than mass-produced industrial products. That, of course is nonsense, because many of the Grande Marque Champagnes are fabulous wines. If there is any problem at all with the best Champagnes of the great houses, it is that they can be terribly expensive. On the other hand, one of the advantages of the wines made by the small, largely family owned artisanal producers is that their wines are less dear. No less important, quite often precisely because of their small production, these wines tend to offer distinctive and often unique tasting experiences. Some of these small producers are now turning out what are considered cult wines - wines sought out by some of the best restaurants and wine shops in the world. When shopping for such Champagnes, simply check the label for the letters RM - recolant manipulant - which translates into "grower-producer," as that identifies a Champagne made by the winemaker who actually grew the grapes. Also worth keeping in mind is that although the best vintage releases of small producers' wines can age for 10-15 years, the non-vintage wines are most often at their best on release and for the next two to three years. Advertisement The person responsible for importing and introducing these wines to Israel is Eldad Levy, who has established Boutique de Champagnes. Orders can be placed directly through the company, whose full catalogue and details can be found at www.bdch.co.il. A. Margaine, Brut, Champagne n.v.: Light golden in color, medium-bodied, with a long mousse and concentrated bubbles that go on and on. On the nose and palate are citrus rind and apple nuts, with hints of yeasty brioche and ginger. Floats on the palate and lingers nicely. NIS 189. Score 90. Gaston Chiquet, Brut Champagne, Tradition, n.v.: Delicate and elegant, with a fine mousse and intense bubbles that last nicely. Opens with a floral nose, goes on to honey and toasty brioche notes and then picks up a hint of red berries, all of which linger nicely on the palate. NIS 199. Score 90. Gaston Chiquet, Brut Champagne, Blanc de Blanc d'Ay, n.v. Lots of toast, yeasty aromas and flavors here, but those in fine balance with citrus fruits and roasted nuts, and a hint of ginger, vanilla and lemon peel on the long finish. A good mousse and intense bubbles that linger nicely. NIS 229. Score 90. Gaston Chiquet, Brut Champagne, Special Club, 1998: Medium- to full-bodied, opening with a burst of cinnamon-spiced apple pie and then going on to show notes of citrus, vanilla and mocha, all lingering nicely. Crisply dry with a long mousse and concentrated miniscule bubbles that go on and on without end. Drink now-2011. NIS 309. Score 92. Jean Milan, Brut Blanc de Blanc Champagne, Special Club, n.v.: Medium-bodied, with a long-lasting mousse and intense bubbles. On the nose and palate are generous pear, hazelnut and orange rind notes, backed up by hints of sourdough bread and minerals. NIS 229. Score 90. Jean Milan, Brut Rose Millenaire, n.v.: Tastes like a fine Burgundy that just happens to have bubbles. On the nose and palate are spicy cherry, berry and wild flower notes, all coming together in ways that are bound to make you smile. A somewhat short mousse here, but fine bubbles linger nicely. One you'll either love or hate, but certainly worth the try. NIS 249. Score 91. Jean Milan, Brut Blanc de Blancs Champagne, Symphorine, 2002: Oh, what a lovely wine! Medium-bodied, with a long, long mousse, opening with citrus peel and spring flowers and then going on to show notes of mango, passion fruit and green apples, all with a light and tantalizing hint of sourdough bread. Lovely now, but not for long-term cellaring. Drink now-2009. NIS 309. Score 91. Jean Milan, Sec, Blanc de Blancs Champagne, Cuvee Tendresse, n.v.: If this one didn't have bubbles, it would make you think more of a Tokaji dessert wine than a Champagne. Moderate sweetness is balanced nicely by acidity, with citrus and honeyed summer fruits. Best as a dessert wine. NIS 235. Score 87. Larmandier-Bernier, Brut Champagne, Tradition, n.v.: Medium-bodied, with generous yeasty, toasted white bread and fruits in good balance, and showing a moderately long mousse and concentrated, well-focused bubbles. As the wine opens on the palate, look for citrus and spring flowers. NIS 249. Score 89. Pierre Gimonnet & Fils, Brut, Blanc de Blanc Champagne, Fleuron, 2002: Deep golden straw in color, medium-bodied, with a fine mousse and intense bubbles that go on and on. Opens on the nose and palate with toast, toffee and ginger, which yield to citrus, minerals and toasted almonds. Long and generous. Drink now-2014. NIS 295. Score 92. Pierre Gimonnet & Fils, Extra Brut, Blanc de Blancs, Special Club, 1999: Crisp, almost puckering dryness here, but set off in a medium-bodied wine that opens to reveal citrus peel and flowers, notes of kiwis and a generous nuttiness that develops on the palate. Rich and long. Drink now-2011. Score 92. Vilmart & Cie, Brut Champagne, Grand Cellier, n.v.: Light- to medium-bodied, with a fine mousse and intense bubbles and what some may consider a somewhat unusual tutti-frutti combination of aromas and flavors, including bananas, strawberries and raspberries. On the moderately-long finish, hints of ginger and anise. A fine wine, but whether one enjoys it will be much a matter of personal taste. NIS 309. Score 90. Vilmart & Cie, Brut Champagne, Coeur de Cuvee, 1999: Full-bodied, with a super-long lasting mousse and fine bubbles that go on and on. Opens with a spicy, red-fruit nose, and goes on to reveal cassis, wild berries, vanilla and hints of mocha. Long, lively and complex. Drink now-2015, perhaps longer. NIS 549. Score 93. Bookmark to del.icio.us   WHO knows? The WHO says Israel lets Gazans die in 'avoidable tragedies'. Friendly faces Google, Facebook and Yahoo heads will attend a J'lem technology summit.

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