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Last update - 02:49 02/01/2008

Wine and Spirits / Introducing the latest palate charmers

By Daniel Rogov

As noted several times already in this column, boutique wineries are multiplying like rabbits. While this is a welcome phenomenon because some of these produce very good wines, others are almost horrid. This is why one has to be careful when deciding which wines are worth buying. Even the process of hunting down these wines can be somewhat difficult, for although some of the better-known boutiques are available in wine stores and restaurants, others can be found only at the wineries themselves.

Here are some tasting notes for a collection of wines recently released by three boutique wineries. For purchase, it is probably best to call the wineries directly. Ben Hanna can be reached at 052-5434253; Agur at 02-9910483; and Srigim at 02-9991512.

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Ben Hanna winery

Ben Hanna, Cabernet Franc, La Mariee, 2005: Broad, dense and concentrated, yet caressing. Opens with generous raspberries and dried currants highlighted by gentle black and red chili peppers, and moves on to plum and floral aromas and flavors. Soft tannins rise on the long, spicy and fruit-rich finish. Best wine yet from this winery. Best to drink 2008-2011. NIS 110. Score 91.

Ben Hanna, Mediterraneo, 2005: Deep, brooding garnet in color, full-bodied, with still firm tannins and spicy wood waiting to settle down but showing fine balance and simply in need of some more time. A blend of Grenache, Petit Verdot, Syrah and Cabernet Franc (50 percent, 33 percent, 12 percent and 5 percent respectively), aged in French oak for 22 months, opening to show a generous mouthful of black cherry, dried raspberries, eucalyptus and cinnamon. Drink now-2011. NIS 120. Score 91.

Ben Hanna, Petit Verdot, La Mariee, 2005: Reflecting 12 months in French oak with gentle mouth-coating tannins and hints of spices and vanilla, this medium- to full-bodied wine is ripe, rich and supple. Dark purple, with generous cherry and currant fruits and a tantalizing hint of green olives on the long finish. Best 2008-2011. NIS 110. Score 89.

Ben Hanna, Cabernet Sauvignon, Shalem, 2005: A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot (80 percent, 15 percent and 5 percent respectively), aged in French oak for 21 months and showing soft, round and aromatic. On the nose and palate it leaves a tempting array of raspberry, red currant and red plum fruits, set to a backdrop of herbs and mint. Long and generous. Best 2008-2011. NIS 90. Score 89. (Tasted October 3, 2007)

Agur winery

Agur, Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot, Kessem, 2005: This unfiltered, medium-bodied blend of 60 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 30 percent Merlot and about 5 percent each Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot was developed in barriques for 12 months, and is showing gentle overlays of spices and a hint of vanilla, with soft tannins and generous blackberry, red currant and red plums, all leading to a somewhat acidic but lingering finish. Drink now-2009. NIS 77. Score 87.

Agur, Cabernet Sauvignon, Special Reserve, 2005: Dark royal-purple, medium- to full-bodied, with generous spicy oak integrating with chewy tannins and fruits. A blend of 85 percent Cabernet Sauvignon with equal parts of Petit Verdot and Merlot, oak-aged for 18 months. The wine is concentrated, showing currant and plum fruits along with hints of cedar, green olives and sage, with the tannins rising on the persistent finish. Drink now-2011. NIS 100. Score 87.

Srigim winery

Srigim, Petit Verdot, 2005: Showing far better than at barrel tastings. Dark garnet toward royal purple, medium- to full-bodied, this oak-aged blend of 85 percent Petit Verdot and 7.5 percent each Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc shows fine balance between fruits, spicy wood and acidity. Aromatic, long and mouthfilling. Drink now-2009. NIS 70. Score 86.

Srigim, Cabernet Sauvignon, Barrique, 2005: Full-bodied, with a good balance between spicy and vanilla-rich wood, acidity and fruits. On the nose and palate one can discern wild berries, currants and an appealing earthy-mineral overlay. Rich and round but somewhat short. Drink from release-2010. NIS 70. Score 85.

Srigim, Cabernet Franc, Barrique, 2005: A dark royal purple, medium- to full-bodied blend of 85 percent Cabernet Franc and 7.5 percent each of Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot. Oak-aged for 14 months, showing black fruits on an appealing earthy-mineral background. Tannins and a hint of unwanted acidity rise on the finish. Drink now-2009. NIS 105. Score 84.

Srigim, Cabernet Sauivgnon, 2005: Dark royal purple, a medium-bodied blend of 85 percent Cabernet Sauvignon and 7.5 percent each of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Aged in barriques for 14 months, showing spicy and dusty oak, firm tannins and a few blackberry and currant fruits. Somewhat alcoholic on the nose. Drink now. NIS 100. Score 82.

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