Wine and Spirits / Two names, one fine grape - Haaretz

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Wed., November 21, 2007 Kislev 11, 5768

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Wine and Spirits / Two names, one fine grape

By Daniel Rogov

When the Baron Edmond de Rothschild established Israel's modern wine industry in the late 19th century, he was convinced that the grapes that would produce the best red wines were Alicante Bouchet, Clairette, Grenache and Carignan. The baron was wrong.

The first two have vanished completely from the local scene, and although a few small wineries are making small quantities of fine wines from Grenache and Carignan, most wineries today use them as blending agents with other grapes. There is no question about it: The best wines in Israel today are being made from the most noble grapes of Europe. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah already have proven themselves, and others, including Pinot Noir and Cabernet Franc, are well on their way to demonstrating their potential here.

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The distinction between Syrah and Shiraz may be confusing: Both actually refer to the same kind of grape. It is called Syrah in France's Rhone Valley, and Shiraz in Australia. Israeli winemakers choose which name to use in part based on where the rootstock came from, as well as whether the winemaker considers the wine more French or Australian in style.

Syrah

Dalton, Reserve, Syrah, 2005: Nearly black in color, this is a wine of remarkable elegance. Aromatic, with spicy and floral scents on first attack, yielding to aromas and flavors of berries and plums, backed by hints of white pepper. Look for surprising notes of peaches and apricots on the long finish. Drink now-2010. NIS 120. Score 91. K

Galil Mountain, Yiron, Syrah, 2004: Dark royal purple with orange and green reflections, opening with a rich fruity and floral nose. Full-bodied, with bold but soft tannins integrating nicely with spicy wood, and showing black fruits, dusty wood and light meaty and earthy overlays. Long and deep. Drink now-2012. NIS 95. Score 91. K

Galil Mountain, Shiraz, 2006: Dark garnet, medium- to full-bodied, with soft tannins integrating nicely and showing a generous array of berry, black cherry and plum fruits on a lightly spicy and herbal background. Drink now-2009. NIS 45. Score 88. K

Sea Horse, Antoine, 2005: Made entirely from Syrah grapes, this full-bodied wine spent 16 months in used French barrels. It is deep garnet to royal purple in color, with gripping tannins in fine balance with gentle oak. Opens on a decidedly plummy note that yields to blackberries, spices and red licorice. Drink now-2010. NIS 100. Score 89.

Barkan, Shiraz, Reserve, 2005: Blended with 5-percent Cabernet Sauvignon and 2-percent Petite Verdot, and aged in French and American oak barriques for 14 months. Dark purple, firm and faithful to the Shiraz variety, this red shows oak-accented berry, cherry and licorice flavors backed up by light hints of leather and mint. Lingers nicely with a generous plummy finish. Drink now. NIS 64. Score 87. K

Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Blends

Galil Mountain, Yiron, 2004: A blend of 72-percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 25-percent Merlot and 3-percent Syrah. Intense garnet to royal purple, this wine is full-bodied, with firm, near-sweet tannins integrating nicely with smoky and vanilla-tinged wood. Opens with wild berries on the nose and palate, which yield to black cherry, cassis and spices, and finally a tantalizing hint of bitterness on the long finish. Best 2009-2013. NIS 95. Score 91. K

Galil Mountain, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2006: Super dark garnet, showing moderate spicy and vanilla input and near-sweet tannins from its time in oak. Blackberries and currants on the nose and palate, and hints of earthiness and freshly turned mushrooms coming in from mid-palate. Best from 2009. NIS 45. Score 90. K

Odem Mountain, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2005: Deep garnet to royal purple, medium to full-bodied, with generous soft tannins and spicy wood in good balance with blackberry, currant and cassis fruits. On the moderately long finish, hints of cedar and freshly cut herbs. Drink now-2010. NIS 125. Score 90.

Segal, Cabernet Sauvignon, Unfiltered, 2004: This firm, intense, full-bodied red shows near-sweet, gripping tannins and generous but not dominating oak, in good balance with red and black currants, black cherries, sage and spicy cedarwood on the nose and palate. Look for a generous overlay of minerals on the long finish. Drink now-2010. NIS 90. Score 90. K

Tulip, Reserve, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005: Made from grapes from two different vineyards, this full-bodied red is showing still-firm tannins that need time to integrate, but are in fine balance with spicy wood and fruits. Opens to reveal blackberry, currant and light leathery notes, all on a generously peppery and vanilla rich background. Long and juicy. Drink now-2011. NIS 110. Score 88.

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