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Tue., November 06, 2007 Cheshvan 25, 5768

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Wine and Spirits / World-class in Israel

By Daniel Rogov

This summer I wrote that there was a good chance that Israel would soon be recognized as one of the 10 best wine producing countries in the world. Quite a few readers have asked for a list of the other nine countries. Simply stated, those are France, Italy, Spain, Germany, the United States (especially the states of California, Oregon and Washington), Portugal, Australia, New Zealand and Chile. Considering that there are 87 countries in the world producing wine in commercial quantities, this is no small achievement. Clearly, tiny little Israel, whose country is is less than 7 percent of the size of California, will not compete in quantity with some of those countries. More importantly, however, we will compare comfortably in quality. Following are reviews of several recent releases, several of which compete very nicely indeed.

Recanati, Petite Sirah-Shiraz, Special Edition, 2006: Dark garnet enough to be thought of as brooding, with a nearly explosive nose packed with raspberries and chocolate, you expect this wine to be a potent blockbuster. What it is, however, is medium-bodied, with soft, caressing tannins that part comfortably to reveal a generous array of blackberries and blueberries, cassis, tobacco and dark chocolate, all of which linger long and comfortably. Drink now-2011. NIS 75. Score 92. K

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Recanati, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2006: Ruby to garnet in color, medium- to full-bodied with soft tannins integrating nicely, and traditional Cabernet Sauvignon aromas and flavors of berries and currants on a lightly spicy background. Drink now-2010. NIS 50. Score 87. K

Recanati, Merlot, 2006: Dark, somewhat cloudy garnet in color, medium- to full-bodied with somewhat gripping tannins, and generous spices and smoke from the wood in which it aged, and a touch of Brett holding back the berry and cherry fruits that lie underneath. Drink now. NIS 50. Score 85. K

Galil Mountain, Yiron, 2004: A blend of 72-percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 25-percent Merlot and 3-percent Syrah. Intense garnet to royal purple, full-bodied, with firm, near-sweet tannins integrating nicely with smoky and vanilla-tinged wood. Opens with wild berries on the nose and palate, which yield to black cherry, cassis and spices and finally a tantalizing hint of bitterness on the long finish. Best 2009-2013. NIS 92. Score 91. K

Galil Mountain, Yiron, Syrah, 2004: Dark royal purple with orange and green reflections, opening with a rich fruity and floral nose. Full-bodied, with bold but soft tannins integrating nicely with spicy wood, and showing black fruits, dusty wood and light meaty and earthy overlays. Long and deep. Drink now-2012. NIS 88. Score 91. K

Sea Horse, Antoine, Tete de Cuvee, 2005: Made entirely from Syrah grapes, this full-bodied wine spent 16 months in used French barrels and now shows deep garnet to royal-purple color with gripping tannins in fine balance with gentle oak. Opens on decidedly plummy and chocolate notes that yield to blackberries, spices and red licorice. Drink now-2010. NIS 115. Score 90.

Sea Horse, Lennon, 2005: A blend this year of 90-percent Zinfandel and 5-percent each Petite Sirah and Carignan. Aged for about 16 months in used American oak barrels, this full-bodied, deep, dark garnet wine is richly aromatic, with soft tannins integrating beautifully with the wood and wild berry, blackberry and sage notes. All coming together nicely in a long spicy finish. Drink now-2010. NIS 115. Score 90.

Avidan, Reserve, Shiraz, 2005: Made from an Australian clone but with a distinctly Rhone nose and palate. Developed for 16 months in French oak, it shows a generous mouthful of blackberry, blueberry, plum and cherry fruits, and in the background hints of leather, earth and oriental spices that go on to a long finish. Drink now-2011. NIS 110. Score 90.

Golan Heights Winery, Merlot, Gamla, 2005: Garnet red, medium- to full-bodied, with silky tannins and showing an appealing array of berry, black cherry and cassis fruits on a lightly spicy background, this wine reflects its development in barriques with light overlays of spices and white chocolate. Drink now-2010. NIS 50.Score 88. K

Golan Heights Winery, Chardonnay, Chardonnay, 2006: Golden-straw in color, with light hints of spicy wood highlighting peach, citrus and tropical fruits. Drink now. NIS 50. Score 87. K

Saslove, Cabernet Sauvignon, Aviv, 2006: Medium- to full-bodied with firm tannins and smoky wood waiting to integrate, but with balance and structure that show future promise. As this one develops look for blackberry, purple plum and currant fruits matched by hints of spices, cloves and espresso. Best 2008-2011. NIS 62. Score 88.

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