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My Private Chef / Say cheese!
By Miri Hanoch and Eyal Shani

"You know where you are? You're in Eilat," the chef said to me at sunrise, as if he was the man in Pedro Almodovar's "Talk to Her," as I lay before him fluttering my eyelids, still seeing stars from a night of sleeping outdoors.

Like always, we said we'd set out at five, at first light, get right on the road without having to fight any traffic and enjoy the crisp morning air. But by the time we went to bed, we had shifted the departure time to seven, since it was already midnight, and when we woke up in was eight-thirty, so we decided that we were leaving at nine, no matter what, but then our neighbor told me that they were also going to the guitar festival at the Shaharut Inn (http://www.camel-riders.com) and were going to take it easy and leave at eleven, since this was a vacation after all, so why rush?

At eleven I waved good-bye to the neighbors' car and went back inside to see how, as usual, the members of my household had become studious and diligent just when it was time to leave the house. It was already three in the afternoon by the time we neared Rahat, 10 hours behind our original schedule. Now, driving all the way to Shaharut seemed like too much for one day, so we called our good friend Chen from Sukkah in the Desert, who on the day we had to evacuate our lodgings in Mitzpeh Ramon excitedly grabbed me by the shoulders and said warmly: "You can always find a home with us in the desert."

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"Hi, Chen, Happy New Year! So how are you?" I chirped gaily into the car speakerphone.

"Happy New Year. So, you guys are here?" Chen wasn't confused for a second.

"Actually, yes, we thought maybe ..."

"All the sukkot are full, but we'll send the kids to sleep at the house in Mitzpeh, they'll be very happy, so come right over."

The descent from Mitzpeh Ramon to the sukkah, which had once felt like a dangerous and isolated place, now seemed as safe and wholesome as a Little House on the Negev Prairie.

"Everything takes practice," the chef said as we rounded the bend past the alpaca farm, reading my thoughts and reminding me, yet again, that everything would be all right, even that which wasn't. We had tied the luggage on the roof, since the car was full. That takes practice, too, it seems, as we would later discover.

The little one wanted to feed the horses, the chickens and the donkey. An enchanted, lantern-lit evening awaited us at the edge of the mountain, in the children's sukkah - two floors of stone, wood and fronds, surrounded by a moonless night, mountains and stars. At one point, the little one suddenly got frightened and said, "I want to go home," but then the eldest's wonderful boyfriend, who was with us, reminded her where Mowgli lives and she was relieved and said, "Well, here it's not a forest."

From the moment we arrived at our friends' extraordinarily beautiful home in Shaharut, the chef began cooking whatever came his way over a bonfire. This situation, when you suddenly realize that you're surrounded by about 20 hungry people, is familiar. As soon as the sun goes down, the only place to stock up on supplies is the little store at the air force base in Ovda. The chef pulled out two packages of De Cecco pasta he had brought from home, because you don't go anywhere without pasta, and set off on a hunt along the terraces below the house. Twenty minutes later he was back with mangold, onions, dates, tomatoes, hot peppers, herbs and a round of ricotta cheese that was found hanging in the storage room.

In no time, pasta with everything to be found in and around the house was served up on a stone tray. After the meal, 20 sated people sat down to smoke opposite the bright mountain while a desert breeze cooled faces that were boiling from the day's heat and the shata peppers.

"Daddy, how is a star born?" the little one asked with a belly-laugh, thrilled to pieces with the wide-open skies as we lay down to sleep on mattresses outside. The sounds of the Shaharut guitar festival in the evening drifted to our ears from afar until the wee hours of the chilly morning. It was magical, and the neighbors later told us that a magnificent atmosphere had suffused the Inn. What else would you expect in a place where people who love guitars and the desert gather to knock on heaven's door on Rosh Hashanah? Next year we'll leave at five and be part of the setup crew, or else - or else I'm not starting the year.

We crept home slowly, and not in any metaphorical sense. Something went wrong in the tying of the luggage to the roof, and the wind whistling through the kitbags sounded like a Vespa with no muffler was riding along atop the car. Every 20 minutes we stopped to see how to solve the noise problem, but "building a wind tunnel for a car is a whole world of science," said the chef as he killed, in one blow, seven flies that had entered the car from the firing zone on the right.

Nothing terrible happened, even when the gas ran out on the way up to Mitzpeh Ramon. When will someone open a gas station on this road - if possible, with a little inn where one could sleep under the stars? At last I had a chance to try on the fluorescent yellow vest, and to call my good friend Itai, the James Bond of the desert for his friends who get stuck along the way. He showed up curly-haired, dusty and smiling, holding a jerrican of gasoline and a half-packet of Noblesse cigarettes. What else does a person need?

When we got back to Tel Aviv we discovered that the eldest's backpack had not returned with us; it had apparently flown off in the wind tunnel to god only knows where. We laughed, we cried, we fought and we argued over who was most at fault, and finally we made ourselves some cold lemon arak and went down to the yard, with the little one asking in all seriousness: "Nu, when is the Shaharut going to start already?"

4 cups of 3 percent milk

1 cup of fresh sweet cream (15 percent or 38 percent fat)

Juice of one fresh lemon

Sea salt (optional; saltiness enlivens the ricotta, but tempers the sweet flavors of the milk in it)

A piece of cheesecloth or new cotton diaper

A strainer

Pour milk and cream into a heavy steel pot (24-cm in diameter is good), turn on the fire to a medium flame and bring to a boil, being careful not to let it boil over. When it reaches boiling point, lower flame, add lemon juice and stir for about two minutes with a wooden spoon while the liquid is at a low boil. During these two minutes, the milk solids separate from the liquids, though only a very sharp eye can detect this. Do not be tempted to add any more lemon. The cheese-making has begun and more lemon will turn the ricotta sour. When two minutes are up, turn off the heat and let the milk rest in the pot for another two minutes.

Line the inside of a strainer with cheesecloth and place it over the top of a bowl or pot deep enough so the liquids that drip through will not touch the bottom of the strainer afterward.

This is the moment, for anyone who has a grapevine in their garden, to line the inside of the cloth-covered strainer with a few fresh branches. If there are no grapevines around, a fresh spring of sage or rosemary will give the cheese a rustic aroma.

Slowly pour the milk mixture into the strainer and transfer the whole thing to the refrigerator.

After an hour, most of the water that has separated from the milk has already collected in the bottom of the pot. The ricotta is almost ready: It now has a soft, grainy texture and its center is still warm - there's nothing as wonderful as this "warm ricotta." One more hour in the refrigerator and the cheese has a uniform texture - the perfect ricotta. It will keep for three days in the refrigerator.

The combination of pasta and olive oil already promises great things, and as long as you believe that you can have pasta with whatever you have around, anything added to it in a hot skillet will lovingly merge with it. The following recipe serves four - 125 grams of pasta per person is the exact amount to ensure perfect flavor.

1 package (500 gr) dry pasta, preferably De Cecco spaghetti or linguini

A large pot filled with five liters of water

50 grams of sea salt

1 bunch of mangold leaves (only the green parts)

Bring the water to a boil, add salt, throw in the pasta, stir immediately with a pasta fork until the water returns to a strong boil and the noodles separate without your help.

Add the green leaves to cook together with the pasta and give it a slightly nutty taste. Keep stirring every two minutes, following the instructions for cooking time that appear on the package. This leaves about 10 minutes to prepare the sauce. Pasta and sauce should meet when both are piping hot, which requires a unity of time, place and action.

6 tbsp olive oil

1 sweet red pepper, seeded and torn into 4-5 pieces

1 hot green pepper, sliced into thin rings

12 Greek olives, pitted and torn in half by hand

3 moist pitted dates, torn by hand into large pieces

Leaves of 1 small stalk of sage

Leaves of 1 small stalk of rosemary

4 cloves garlic, sliced into thick rings

12 cherry tomatoes, halved

Meanwhile, the pasta has finished cooking. Drain it all at once into a large colander placed in the sink, then add 4 tbsp olive oil and mix well with a fork.

Pour the pasta from the colander into the hot skillet and mix quickly using tongs, over a high flame.

The leaves from 2 fresh sprigs of hyssop (za'atar)

3 green onions, torn by hand into sections about 3 cm long

Finely grated peel of 1/2 lemon

The leaves from one fresh stalk of basil

Add all these to the skillet and stir for a few seconds, then turn off the heat.

For serving (in a wooden dish to preserve the heat), pile the pasta on the serving dish, insert thin slices of the ricotta and drizzle on a little olive oil. (All the ingredients are just recommendations.)
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