Modern, metrosexual, male - Haaretz

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Last update - 23:14 23/08/2007

Modern, metrosexual, male

By Ilit Mainemer

Men's wear is sizzling hot in Israel. The reasons for the significant growth in this sector in recent years are readily apparent and include the flow of information in Internet and media, leisure culture and developing tourism. Many individual designers, who offer office and casual attire in addition to evening wear, work alongside chains that embrace the latest trends.

Even men's underwear has evolved. Every respectable fashion house now offers briefs and boxers to the contemporary male customer who, according to Go Under owner Albert Nakari, buys more than 10 pairs at a time to complement his wardrobe. Castro Man designer Asaf Biton says, "Israeli men are no different than men in other parts of the world. There is something to current culture and fashion now - people know what they want. Men have stronger opinions and they invest more thought in their apparel. They know what kind of coffee they want and they also know what kind of fashion they want."

A glance at Castro's winter wear, revealed in a show this month, leads one to believe that the Israeli man is more open to unconventional outfits and trends, like skinny jeans and metallic fabrics. Biton nods in agreement. "Two weeks ago, I was in our store in Dizengoff Center in Tel Aviv and a young accountant asked for skinny jeans. In general, during the past year, you see a lot of men wearing skinny pants in Tel Aviv," he reports.

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Doron Ashkenazi, who has been designing here for the last 20 years, is not impressed by the skinny look. "In my opinion, the structure of an Israeli man's body does not suit skinny pants." Nevertheless, he has also discerned a shift in men's wear. "The market is open," he says. "People know what they want, how they want to look, what suits them, and what doesn't. These are not the men who brought their wives to the store and wore what they told them to wear. The market here is still emerging, but the clientele has more definitive opinions. My customers don't look for the latest trends or copious quantities. They look for clothes with a cleaner line. These men buy clothing abroad and they are up to date."

Ashkenazi notes that men's fashion has become cleaner, more minimalist and draws inspiration from the future. In his opinion, what is lacking in Israel are simpler items, fewer gimmicks and designers who do not believe that a good shirt has to sport abundant information. Thus, aside from the jackets, Ashkenazi's upcoming winter collection features relatively clean, more tailored cuts that fit the body more closely. The collection features emphasized stitching in interesting fabrics as well as other small details. "I want to educate," Ashkenazi admits. "One of my roles as a designer is to educate my clientele. I should dictate to my customers rather than have them dictate me." The Golf chain has yet to adopt this clean, simple line. Embroidery and prints can still be found on men's shirts. But the new winter collection does have narrower cuts and stylish colors - including purple and royal blue. According to Golf's commercial director, Ilan Beja, "Men's wear has certainly taken a great leap forward because of globalization and the presence of foreign labels in Israel, and also because everything is readily available. Everyone sees everything at the same time. Men have greater demands. They travel the world and see how their colleagues dress, as well as accepted dress codes for special events and business.

"So we are pulling them in a more fashionable direction," he says, "and it's really catching on. The clothes are more shaped and we have introduced Lycra fibers taken from the world of women's fashion - that also went over well. Everything is tighter and more contoured."

Gershon Bram, another veteran Israeli designer, says he has witnessed a major change in men's fashion in recent years. "There are new designers with excellent vision when it comes to men's fashion. It is no longer the domain of an isolated few. And the customer benefits from that," he says. But in his mind the best evidence for a change in attitude is that future grooms no longer bring their mothers or fiancees with them to choose their wedding attire. "They come alone or with a friend. They know the big names, they are aware of quality, and they pay attention to what's happening in the world."

Ala Eisenberg, designer for the edgy Maison Rouge men's wear label, says that metrosexuality has become the norm. "Maybe five years ago it looked silly but men now talk about labels, they know labels, and they're more aware of trends. It's become part of their lexicon and it interests them. Many men in Israel, from advertising execs and graphic artists to accountants and lawyers, like clothes and enjoy them."

As such, 38-year old Benny Cahlon, a photographer from Tel Aviv, regularly leafs through men's fashion magazines, which he purchased abroad. Cahlon, who particularly likes Comme Des Garcons, says the increase in selection in Israel is part of a positive development. But he believes that most Israeli men's wear designers are afraid to be daring because the average Israeli is somewhat conventional and unwilling to invest in clothing. He says that local men's wear designers mainly produce a lot of wedding attire in order to make money.

Not Eisenberg. She presents meticulously tailored men's wear that is from the here-and-now, chic and inspired by youth cults. Eisenberg launched her career by designing for her own label (sold at Katomenta, 173 Dizengoff Street, Tel Aviv). She designed a Summer 2007 collection inspired by the 1950s. In addition to her fastidiously designed classic line, her collection also offers everyday items that are no less scrupulously designed, in light cuts and fine fabrics. They include striped cotton-knit polo shirts in gray and baby blue or gray and red and comfortable, wearable linen trousers. "I saw that these kinds of products were missing here. Young high-tech workers and bankers don't find solutions when they look for something to wear to work. In the end, they go to Zara. My goal is to provide answers for the new man, and I see that group, made up of people with lots of self-awareness, gradually expanding.

"In general," she adds, "this trend has taken off throughout the world. Men's wear departments have expanded and gained momentum since the beginning of the decade, in Europe as well. In 2001, Hedi Slimane presented his first collection for Dior Homme, today Raf Simons is one of the most influential designers in the world, and even the men's niche at Prada has gained momentum since the end of the 1990s." Eisenberg believes that fashion-forward chains, like Castro, play a key role in this evolution. According to her they have made Israelis more open to fashion. Castro's Biton says, "We believe it is vital to adhere to standards of fashion. An item of clothing is no longer merely a necessity - it fulfills cultural and personal desires. It is a world unto itself."

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