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Wine and Spirits / Good values from Burgundy
By Daniel Rogov

Wines from Burgundy often demand high prices. The plots there are small, and the finest wines are produced in minuscule quantities, which makes those prices seem more tolerable. From time to time some truly fine Burgundy wines make their way to us at prices that while not "cheap", are indeed good values. Following are reviews of several such recent arrivals, available at the branches of Derek Hayain.

Olivier Leflaive, Chablis, Vaillons, 2004: Crisp, mineral-rich, with apple, lemon, and herbal notes. Showing fine balance and on the long finish hints of honey and cream. Drinking nicely now but best 2009-2016. NIS 150. Score 91.

Domaine Vincent Girardin, Chassagne Montrachet, Morgeot, 2004: With toffee qua butterscotch flavors, matched nicely by spicy oak, citrus, green apple and mineral aromas and flavors, a traditional Chassagne Montrachet. Like many of these, this one needs time for its elements to come together. Enjoyable now but best 2009-2015. NIS 240. Score 91.

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Louis Jadot, Chassagne-Montrachet, 2000: Medium- to full-bodied, golden-straw in color, with generous toasty oak and vanilla set off nicely by peach, pear and floral aromas and flavors. On the long, buttery finish look for hints of apples and toasted almonds. Drink now till 2008. NIS 240. Score 91.

Domaine Dujac, Morey St. Denis, 2004: Full-bodied, dark garnet, with soft, near sweet tannins and spicy wood. A fascinating combination of ripe red berries and cassis with hints of mocha and pepper, followed by a tantalizing hint of freshly picked mushrooms. Finishes a bit short. Drink now till 2009. NIS 250. Score 90.

Domaine J.L.Trapet, Gevrey Chambertin, 1993: Medium- to full-bodied, fruit-forward and wood-rich enough you might swear it's a Napa Valley Pinot. Opens with firm tannins, those yielding in the glass to show spicy cedar wood and then plums, cherries and cassis. On the moderately long finish hints of Oriental spices. Drink now till 2009. NIS 350. Score 90.

Domaine Joseph Roty, Gevrey Chambertin, Cuvee Champs Cheny, 2003: "Sur" is the key prefix to describe this wine but I'm not sure that is a compliment as we are talking about sur-ripeness, sur-minerality and what I cannot help but think of as just a bit "sur-real." Medium-bodied, with soft tannins integrating nicely and showing very ripe berry and plum fruits, matched by minerality that calls to mind sea water and iodine. True, all is in balance, so perhaps time will be kind to this one. NIS 280. For the moment, a tentative score of 86-90.

Vincent Girardin, Bonnes Mares, 2001: Full-bodied, deep ruby to garnet, with firm near sweet tannins integrated nicely and showing appealing berry, cherry and cassis notes and on the moderately long finish a hint of tobacco. Finishes long, tannic and spicy. Drink now till 2009. NIS 500. Score 90.

Domaine Robert Arnoux, Vosne Romanee, 2004: Ruby to garnet in color, medium- to full-bodied with still gripping tannins but those integrating nicely and showing raspberry, cherry and red currant fruits on a spicy background. Tannins rise on the finish with hints of cigar tobacco. Best 2009-2013. NIS 360. Score 89.

Domaine J.F. Mugnier, Nuits St. George, Premier Cru, Clos de la Marechale, 2004: Dark cherry red, medium- to full-bodied and fine balance between spicy wood, fresh acidity and soft tannins. Look for a floral nose as the wine opens in the glass to reveal red and black berries, those supported nicely by hints of juniper berries, ginger and white pepper. Approachable and enjoyable now but best 2009-2015. NIS 300. Score 92.

A.F. Gros, Pommard, Premier Cru, Pezzeroles, 2002: Dark ruby with orange and green reflections, full-bodied, with still gripping tannins that are only now starting to settle down. No fear though, for this one has the balance and structure required to assure that it will go on rather nicely. On the nose and palate rich red currant, raspberry and cherry fruits, complemented nicely by minerals and a light and tantalizing aroma of a fresh forest floor. Best 2009-2018, perhaps longer. NIS 290. Score 94.

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