Most people who bring home an espresso machine hoping to replicate the wonderful coffee at a fine cafe will be disappointed. There are many reasons for this - from the huge differences between professional and domestic machines, to the user's experience and skill in maintaining and operating the machine, to the coffee itself, which frequently is not fresh or of good quality.

Owners of home coffee machines will learn, most likely, that the biggest difference between homemade and "professional" coffee can be seen in a cup of espresso that is sipped without milk and without sugar. In the absence of milk to "cover" for a watery, weak beverage that is sometimes burned or sour, and without the thick, rich layer of foam called "crema" on the surface of the coffee - the inferior taste of the drink itself is felt and exacerbated. Drinking bad espresso can be a sadder experience than imbibing less noble coffee that has been prepared correctly.

The fact that it is particularly difficult to make good espresso at home causes many people to give up and to opt for cappuccino, drunk in a larger cup and consisting of one part coffee to two parts frothed milk. The milk dilutes the coffee, softening, sweetening and rounding its flavor, and it can to some extent disguise the taste of coffee that is less than perfect. Chances are, therefore, that cappuccino made at home will be more enjoyable than an amateur's homemade espresso.

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Nevertheless, it is reasonable to assume that the cappuccino you brew at home can be wonderfully improved with a bit of knowledge, investment and practice, without any need to replace the machine (on condition that it produces a reasonable stream of steam for making the frothed milk). If the milk that you froth at home is very airy and dry, has a volume that is twice or more than that of the milk you started with, and on the surface of it you see small bubbles reminiscent of soap bubbles - then the following information is for you.

Coffee's worst enemy

The most common mistake about frothing milk in a home espresso machine is the assumption that the main aim is maximum aeration of the liquid and the greatest possible increase in its volume, while it is being brought to the boiling point. In fact, froth that is airy and full of visible bubbles is coffee's worst enemy. Soap-like air bubbles in the milk's foam block the contact between the beverage and the taste buds on the tongue, and in fact create a barrier between the drinker and the coffee. The key to perfect cappuccino is froth that consists of micro-bubbles, too small to discern with the eye. The surface of milk that is suitable for coffee should, then, look thick and silky - but smooth and free of bubbles. Milk that has been properly frothed will give a boost to the flavor of the beverage, smoothen and change beyond recognition the consistency and the feeling that the cappuccino creates in the mouth (also thanks to the correct temperature), and as a bonus will upgrade the aesthetic appearance of the drink, and make it possible to create designs of hearts, flowers and leaves on the surface of the coffee, just by pouring it into the coffee.

Following are some tips that will help in the perfect frothing of milk for cappuccino.

W The frothing jug: The milk is frothed in a container that is intended for this purpose, which has a volume sufficient to allow the steam to create a vortex without the milk spraying in all directions (600 milliliters is a convenient size for one or two cups of cappuccino; for machines with a weak output of steam, a smaller jug will be suitable). The best jug is a round, stainless steel one with straight sides, slightly conical in shape, with the base slightly larger in circumference than the opening, with a deep spout for pouring. Jugs with sharp angles or a "belly" on the bottom will interfere with the flow of the milk and yield inferior froth. Glass or ceramic containers do not conduct the heat as well and do not allow for testing the temperature of the milk by hand, which is essential for success.

W Milk: Any milk can be frothed, but it is easier to use whole milk with 3 percent fat than low-fat milk, and the foam will be more stable and last longer. It is important that the milk be as cold as possible before the foaming, so that there will be enough time to froth it before the temperature gets too high. It is therefore a good idea to keep the jug, even if it is empty, in the refrigerator. The minimum quantity of milk to begin with for frothing in a 600 milliliter jug is about 200 milliliters (the optimal amount, as determined by the combination of the size and shape of the container, and the strength of the steam, is discovered by trial and error), so that it is likely that some milk will remain after the cappuccino is poured. Use the leftovers to make hot chocolate, to eat with cereal or for anything other than foaming it again. It is possible to froth again milk a second time, on condition that it has been well chilled, but the first frothing yields the best results.

W Frothing technique: Though it may sound counter-intuitive, one must realize that the steam pipe always has to be stuck deep enough beneath the surface of the milk so as not to allow large bubbles to be formed. At the beginning of the process, therefore, the opening of the pipe has to be deep down, about a centimeter from the bottom, a bit off-center. Open the steam flow to the maximum. If the steam is powerful enough (and it is important to start only when the machine is ready and the steam is at its full strengh), the milk should swirl in a whirlpool inside the jug. At this stage it is possible to lower the jug carefully until slight hissing sounds are heard, but without breaking the surface of the milk at any stage. Place a hand on the side of the jug to feel the temperature of the milk. Before it gets too hot to leave your hand on the jug (about 60 degrees Centigrade), shut the steam faucet off all the way. Only then should you remove the pipe from the jug without running the risk of inserting large air bubbles. It is important to know that bringing the milk to a higher temperature breaks up the desired micro-foam and destroys it.

When the frothing is completed, tap the jug a few times on the work surface to get rid of larger bubbles that may have formed, and then turn the jug in energetic circles, holding it level and on the work surface, to mix all the parts of the milk and to obtain a uniform texture. If all has gone well, the result is a thick, velvety liquid with a smooth, shiny surface and no visible bubbles.

W Pouring: When using most home machines, it is important to brew the coffee before frothing the milk, as the temperature needed for frothing is too high for the brew, so that reversing the process will yield burned coffee. Pour the velvety milk into the center of the coffee, or slightly to one side. Proper milk froth, which is poured into thick, good espresso, will first sneak under the brown coffee and then reappear as a white spot in the center. The mixing of the colors of the milk and the coffee is the best evidence that the milk has been frothed to perfection. At this stage the jug can be gently moved away, while moving it slightly from side to side, to create a pattern of fine brown-and-white stripes on the surface of the beverage. Perfectionists will slide the jug at the end of the pouring to the other side of the cup, in order to create a thin white stripe in the center. Only practice and persistence lie between this and becoming a wizard at latte art - the art of creating designs while pouring; it doesn't hurt to peek over the shoulder of a skilled barista at a good cafe, to learn the method.

More information about coffee, frothing and latte art can be found at:

b http://coffeegeek.com/guides/frothingguide/latteartguide

b http://www.espressovivace.com/archives/9512scr.html

b http://www.coffeeresearch.org/espresso/milktexture.htm

doramg@haaretz.co.il