The quality of the Binyamina Winery's wines is definitely on the rise. The winery is currently releasing wines in several series: Special Reserve, Avnei Hachoshen, Yogev, Tiltan and wines from its boutique arm, The Cave. However, the wines produced under the Teva label are not so much a new series as a replacement for wines that formerly carried the Binyamina label.

For those who do not speak Hebrew, Avnei Hachoshen refers to the precious stones that adorned the chest covering of the high priests during the days of the First and Second Temples; Tiltan is the name of a plant that has three distinct leaves on every branch (the logic being that these wines are blends of three different vintage years); Yogev is a man who works the soil, in this case a clear bow to grape farmers; and Teva means nature or, less formally, personality, and each wine in the series is said to have its own character.

Avnei Hachoshen, Cabernet Sauvignon, Tarshish, 2004: Full-bodied, with spicy, vanilla-rich wood and near-sweet tannins in good balance with black currant, wild berries and minerals, all leading to a long and appealing spicy finish. Drink now-2008. NIS 130. Score 88. K.

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Avnei Hachoshen, Syrah, Odem, 2004: With 15 months in oak, medium to full-bodied, with soft, well-integrated tannins and light herbal-earthy aromas and flavors complemented nicely by plum, berry and cassis fruits. Hints of tobacco and chocolate on the finish. Drink now-2008. NIS 130. Score 87. K.

Avnei Hachoshen, Sauvignon Blanc Fume, Leshem, 2005: Light golden straw in color, medium-bodied, with citrus, sweet pea, herbal and grassy aromas and flavors that come together as a lively and appealing whole and finish with a light creamy sensation. Drink now-2009. NIS 90. Score 88. K.

Avnei Hachoshen, Chardonnay, Shoham, 2005: Developed for 16 months in oak, deep golden straw in color, with generous smoky oak flavors balanced by appealing citrus, tropical and melon fruits. Long and generous. Drink now. NIS 90. Score 90. K.

Avnei Hachoshen, Cabernet Sauvignon-Shiraz-Merlot, Sapir, 2004: A blend of the three grapes (40 percent, 35 percent and 25 percent respectively) that spent 15 months in French oak. Dark garnet in color, medium-bodied, with soft tannins and ripe currant and plum fruits backed up by Oriental spices and pepper. Easy drinking but lacking complexity. Drink now-2009. NIS 130. Score 88. K.

Avnei Hachoshen, Chardonnay-Sauvignon Blanc-Viognier, Yashfeh, 2005: Each of the three varieties was fermented separately and then developed in French oak for six months before the final blend was achieved. Golden straw in color, medium-bodied and showing fine balance between fruits and acidity. Opens with citrus flowers on the nose, which yield nicely to ripe peach, melon and citrus, all against an appealing mineral-rich background. Drink now-2009. NIS 90. Score 89. K.

Binyamina, Chardonnay, Teva, 2006: An unoaked wine, light golden straw in color, unoaked, crisp, lively and refreshing, with grapefruit, nectarine and a flinty dryness that cannot help but call to mind a Petit Chablis. A good quaffer. Drink now. NIS 35. Score 86. K.

Binyamina, Muscat of Alexandria, Teva, 2006: Golden straw in color, this light- to medium-bodied semi-dry white shows generous floral aromas, opening on the palate to reveal fig and apricot flavors. Faulted because it lacks the adequate acidity that would have kept it lively. Drink now. NIS 30. Score 84. K.

Binyamina, Emerald Riesling, Teva, 2006: As we expect from Emerald Riesling, half-dry, light straw in color and with pineapple and tropical fruit flavors. Thankfully not overly sweet. Drink now. NIS 30. Score 82.

Binyamina, Cabernet Blush, Teva, 2006: Pale, almost watery pink in color, light, with not much in the way of fruits on the nose or palate and just a bit too sweet. Drink up. NIS 30. Score 78.

Binyamina, Cabernet Sauvignon, Teva, 2006: Dark cherry red to garnet, medium-bodied, with light hints of spicy oak and an appealing cherry, blackberry personality. On the short but generously fruity finish, an appealing hint of tobacco. Drink now. NIS 35. Score 85. K.

Small winery offerings

Gustavo & Jo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Premium, 2004: Deep ruby to garnet, medium- to full-bodied, with firm tannins needing time to integrate but already showing fine balance and structure. Aromas and flavors of blackberries, currants, near-sweet cedar wood and white pepper lead to a long tobacco and chocolate rich finish. Best 2008-2012. Score 90.

Gustavo & Jo, Fume Blanc, Shani, 2005: Developed partly in 300 liter Burgundy-style barrels, this medium to full-bodied, light-golden Sauvignon Blanc wine combines generous fruitiness and a light grassy overlay in ways that are crisp, clean and refreshing. Drink now-2008. Score 89.

Sde Boker, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2004: Deep cherry red to purple, medium-bodied, with soft, well-integrating tannins and appealing blackberry and currant fruits, with spicy wood rising on the finish. Drink now-2008. Score 87.

Sde Boker, Carignan, 2005: Blended with 15 percent Cabernet Sauvignon and aged for 12 months in year-old oak barriques, dark garnet to royal purple, medium-bodied and softly tannic wine. Concentrated and firm but round with generous berry, black cherry and cassis fruits that linger nicely. Drink now-2008. Score 86.

Sde Boker, Merlot, 2004: Garnet red in color, medium-bodied, with firm tannins integrating nicely with spicy wood and aromas and flavors of black fruits, Mediterranean herbs and a hint of tar. Drink now-2008. Score 86.

Avidan, Blend de Noirs, 2005: Garnet to royal purple, this blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz (50 percent, 35 percent and 15 percent respectively) shows medium- to full-bodied, with firm, almost gripping tannins, which open to reveal aromas and flavors of blackberries, currants and espresso coffee, leading to a medium-long, near-sweet finish. Drink now-2008. Score 86.

Avidan, Blended, 2005: Dark cherry red, medium-bodied, with soft tannins, reflecting its 10 months in oak with spices and vanilla, which come together nicely with currant and black cherry fruits. Drink now. Score 85.