Since the Clos de Gat winery released its first wines from its 2001 vintage, it has gone from being a local "rising star" to being widely acknowledged as one of the country's very best wineries.

Clos de Gat, overseen by owner-winemaker Eyal Rotem, is located on Kibbutz Har'el in the Jerusalem Mountains, and currently produces about 50,000 bottles a year. The name is a play on words - the French clos is an enclosed vineyard surrounded by stone walls or wind-breaks, while the Hebrew gat is an antique wine press. With the exception of the Chardonnay in the 2002 wine, all the grapes have come from the winery's own vineyards, which now include Cabernet, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Syrah and most recently Chardonnay. Until this year, the winery had two series, Clos de Gat and Har'El. This year the winery introduced Sycra (Aramaic for "bright red"), its premier line, to be released only in years of exceptional quality. Although the Sycra wines are certainly not inexpensive and may not be for everyday drinking, when considering their outstanding quality - these are among the best wines released by any Israeli winery and compete comfortably in with many of the fine wines of Europe and North America - I find they are well worth the price.

Sycra, Syrah, 2004: A chameleon - the flavors and aromas in this firm, dense wine seem to shift and change every few moments. Starts off with cherries and currants, goes to grape and pepper, then sage and anise, and then freshly ground Arabica coffee. And then, as if that weren't enough, back to cherries and currants on the superbly long and tannic finish. Well focused and intense Mediterranean Syrah. Approachable now but best 2008-2012, perhaps longer. NIS 189. Score 94.

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Sycra, Merlot, 2003: Made entirely from Merlot grapes, with 24 months in wood and a generous 15-percent alcohol content, this super-dark garnet wine is full-bodied enough to be genuinely chewy, with tannins that, although gripping, seem soft and almost comforting. On the nose and palate are touches of spice and freshly turned earth backing up currant, blackberry and floral notes, all of which lead to a finish that goes on and on. Approachable now if you like to walk on the dark side, but best 2009-2013. NIS 189. Score 93.

Clos de Gat, Clos de Gat, 2003: Dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon; flushed out with Merlot and Petit Verdot. Dark garnet, medium- to full-bodied, with firm tannins integrating nicely, and showing black currant, black cherry and berry fruits supported by hints of vanilla and licorice. All this leads to a long, gently spicy finish. Elegant is the word. Best 2008-2012. NIS 139. Score 92.

Clos de Gat, Chardonnay, 2005: Deep but lively golden in color, full-bodied, simultaneously floral and creamy, with fine balancing acidity to show off citrus, pear, green apples and, on the long finish, hints of figs and ginger. Long, generous and mouthfilling. Drink now-2009. NIS 135. Score 92.

Clos de Gat, Chanson, 2006: A new release, a seemingly unlikely blend of about 70 percent Chardonnay, 15 percent Semillon, and 6-8 percent each of Viognier and Chenin Blanc, coming together in delightful ways. Light golden and medium-bodied, with fine balancing acidity and an array of lemon, quince, green apple, stony mineral and vaguely floral aromas and flavors, all of which go on and on to a long and lively finish. Easy to drink, but surprisingly complex. Drink now-2009. NIS 79. Score 92.

Clos de Gat, Rose, 2006: A lovely rose that combines an almost laid-back ease in drinking with surprising complexity. A medium-bodied blend of two-thirds Syrah and one-third Cabernet Sauvignon. Very short skin contact yields a delightful rose-petal pink to ruby tint, with blackberry, plum and black cherry fruits on the nose and palate, matched by a dash of spicy oak on the finish. Drink now-2009. NIS 79. Score 90.

Har'El, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2004: Full-bodied and firmly tannic, reflecting its 12 months in oak with spicy wood, which yields in the glass to reveal currants, black cherries and purple plums supported nicely by hints of chocolate and cigar tobacco. Fine balance and structure here, but the wine needs time. Best 2008-2012, perhaps longer. NIS 99. Score 90.

Har'El, Syrah, 2005: Blended with 7 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, this dark royal purple, deeply aromatic mouth-filling red is medium- to full-bodied, with tannins that are soft but comfortably gripping and a generous array of plum, cherry and berry fruits, backed up very nicely by spices (look especially for juniper and white pepper). On the long finish are hints of leather and citrus peel. "Lush" is a good word to describe this wine. Best 2008-2012. NIS 99. Score 93.

Har'El, Merlot, 2004: Deep and dark, with near-sweet oak-accented tannins and generous currant, plum and berry aromas and flavors that come to a well-focused, lightly smoky and mouthfilling finish. Deeply aromatic from first attack through the long finish. Best 2008-2012. NIS 99. Score 90.