Tucked into Yavne's modern industrial zone, there is nothing fancy or pretentious about Terrine. There is, however, something tempting about its casual and relaxed atmosphere reminiscent of the 1950s, especially during the evening hours. Then, the white drapes are drawn, giving the restaurant an air of intimacy and blocking out the view of the alienating high-tech buildings.

Our meal opened with a freshly baked loaf of bread, a thick and tempting ikra, and lightly piquant, julienned red peppers. All were quite good. As an appetizer, I ordered the terrine of chicken liver. It was just firm enough, and was seasoned nicely with hints of juniper berries and brandy. On the side was a jam of cherry tomatoes, which contained whole steamed tomatoes as well as the sweet liquids from the long, slow cooking process. The dish was simple but pleasing when spread on bread with butter. We went on to a small spinach souffle filled with sheep's cheese. The souffle was airy, and arrived on a bed of sliced tomatoes in olive oil and garlic. With the cheese inside melted, the dish was another simple but well executed treat.

Knowing that one of chef-owner Yossi Suissa's specialties is seafood, we continued with two shrimp dishes. The crisp, fresh shrimp were served in sauce, peeled, with the tails intact. The first dish contained a sauce of chili, ginger and finely chopped fresh herbs, and was piquant and full of flavor. The second dish, a somewhat more daring combination of whiskey and honey, proved to be a very positive surprise; the different flavors sat very nicely on the palate. The two shrimp dishes were offered in small and large portions; we opted for the smaller, which proved generous.

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As a main course, my companion ordered sea bream fillet. The fillets were fried until the skin was blackened, but the fish inside was soft and succulent. What made the dish creative and special was the coconut milk-ginger sauce, which was just prominent enough to highlight the flavor of the fish. I ordered the 300 gram entrecote steak, which was singed outside and cooked medium-rare as requested. The steak had just enough fat on it, and came with a well-made brown sauce with three different kinds of pepper - black, green and white - which made me sigh with pleasure, recalling many fine dishes of steak au poivre in the bistros and brasseries of France.

We tried two desserts with our espressos. The first was a smooth, creamy halvah mousse topped with a large strawberry, and the second was a chocolate cake with one layer each of bittersweet, white and milk chocolate, served with a good vanilla patisserie sauce. Both were appreciated.

Our bill came to a reasonable NIS 380, but an average meal for two, with appetizers, main courses and desserts, will total only NIS 280. We ordered a bottle of Yatir Winery rose with our appetizers, and that added NIS 85 to the bill. The dishes here are basic bistro style, and anyone who remembers chef Suissa from his reign at Tel Aviv's Forel will find his dishes remain excellent, and his attention to detail has become even more highly developed. For lunch, this place is perhaps best for the locals, but it is definitely worth an occasional trip even from the big city.

Terrine: 1 Jerusalem Boulevard (in the industrial area), Yavne. Tel.: (08) 942-0974. Open Sun.-Fri. noon-11 P.M. and Saturday noon-5 P.M.