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Last update - 22:51 28/12/2006 Dining Out / Haifa's hidden gem By Daniel Rogov Haifa's recently opened Hanamal 24 is located in the shadow of Haifa's port, not far from the railroad tracks on a street so neglected and ugly that upon arriving, I could not help but wonder why I had come. My apprehension increased as I entered the restaurant through an old iron door, the kind that usually leads to warehouses as run-down as the street itself. From there on, however, everything took a turn for the better. The first surprise awaited in the narrow entrance hall, which was given a touch of elegance by pale beige walls, several well-selected antique bric-a-brac and a carpeted staircase that, as I made my way up, certainly built my expectations. At the top of the stairs I paused, taking in the unexpected loveliness: Here in this old, completely redone warehouse awaits an atmosphere so appealing that one needs a few moments to take it in. Under the supervision of architect Nathan Feibish, this once ugly space has been divided into large and small dining areas containing one to eight tables each. Each area has a different kind of ceiling - some are arched, some sloped, some are made of brick, some of tiles, some of wood beams. Each room has just enough dark wood to contrast with the light walls. With a collection of antique furniture and bric-a-brac as well as fresh flowers here and there, all in fine taste without even a hint of kitsch, this is the kind of atmosphere that calls to mind the upper floors at Paris' Le Procope, the oldest restaurant in the world. Advertisement We were three, and our meal opened with well-made, rosemary-flavored fresh Italian breads. In terms of shape and firmness, they were somewhere between grissini and crisp rolls, and they were served with a good pesto sauce, a lemon-rich red pepper spread, coarse sea salt and butter. As those were served, we each received an amuse geule of a single oyster alongside a col d tomato gazpacho served in a small whiskey glass, as well as spooned over the oyster. The smooth, perfectly piquant gazpacho was delicious, and the creme fraiche dripped on top added to its charms. The oyster itself was lovely, but it would have been even better without that bit of gazpacho; raw oysters are truly at their best when served with nothing but a few drops of fresh lemon juice. We continued with three formal appetizers. The first was a lovely offering of plump shrimp, tails intact, on a bed of lime-flavored coarsely ground hummus atop a toasted but soft pita. The second was a carpaccio of fillet of beef, cut into tissue-thin rounds and sprinkled with a light vinaigrette, freshly ground pepper and sea salt, and Parmesan shavings. Both of those offerings were very good, but the one that I found most pleasing was the large forest mushrooms filled with a mixture of goats' cheese, pistachios and garlic and served on a rich, nutty bread. For a main course, I chose the lamb chops. The thinly sliced, succulent chops came in a generous portion, topped with goats' cheese before being finished under a hot grill and set on a well-made, pumpkin-rich risotto. One of my companions opted for the fillet of drumfish, which was soft with crisp skin, and set on a bed of what chefs call "eggplant caviar" - grilled eggplant scooped out of the shell, pureed and then mixed with finely chopped onion, dill, salt, pepper and olive oil. The third of the main courses we tried was mussels in a butter-rich sauce prepared with root vegetables and seasoned very nicely with saffron. We ordered three desserts, each of which turned out to be two or more dishes. On the first platter, we received a caramel parfait on a thin base of almond sablee, alongside a tempting banana-flavored brulee and a rich hot toffee cream. On the second was a Tarte Tatin with a well-made vanilla patisserie sauce, served with a small bowl of strawberries in a sauce that barely hinted of balsamic vinegar. The third was three cones - one filled with chocolate ganache, the second with bitter chocolate mousse and the third with a milk chocolate mousse. Each of the desserts was delicious enough that the thought of counting calories never came to mind. Throughout our meal the service was responsive and attentive, but never annoying or disruptive. Based on the dishes we ordered, the bill for three, including closing espressos, came to NIS 520. The wine list is a good one, and even though we selected a bottle of the Hermitage Pied de la Cote of Jaboulet for NIS 275, good wines are available for NIS 100 and up. It is clear that chef-partners Guy Avital and Ben Rosh have quickly made this into the most charming and exciting restaurant in Haifa, and it comfortably competes with the best of Tel Aviv. Highly recommended. Hanamal 24: 24 Hanamal Street, Haifa. Open Mon.-Sat., noon-midnight. Tel.: (04) 862-8899. Bookmark to del.icio.us   Stronger than its ills The 60th anniversary celebrations are accompanied by a bad taste. Rise in racism Israeli Arabs say institutionalized racism has increased.   1.   Hanamal 24 02:51  |  Sam Tayar 29/12/06   2.   Who owned it before 1948? 08:49  |  keith 29/12/06   3.   You read my mind #1; too bad its not Kosher 08:56  |  VM 29/12/06   4.   Keith No.2 10:08  |  Mark 29/12/06   5.   #2 11:46  |  Zelkha 29/12/06   6.   Haifa should continue to be improved 12:04  |  Dror 29/12/06   7.   Dining out/Haifa`s hidden gem 17:26  |  Le renne! 29/12/06   8.   Another dining recommendation 19:42  |  MichaelF 29/12/06   9.   History lesson 03:16  |  aussie 30/12/06   10.   #1 18:52  |  Dave 30/12/06   11.   #1 19:57  |  Arielush 31/12/06   12.   Arielush - sinat chinam 08:00  |  Susan 01/01/07   13.   #2 21:12  |  Edan 01/01/07   14.   WHY DOES THIS PAPER PROMOTE NON-KOSHER EATING FOR JEWS 01:11  |  MEIR WEINSTEIN 02/01/07   15.   Excellent restaurant review 13:05  |  Mack Ezzell 02/01/07   16.   Haifa is a city of Peace 16:57  |  Bob 02/01/07   17.   handicap access 13:20  |  ellen 03/01/07   18.   To 14 17:02  |  Arielush 03/01/07   19.   Hanamal 24 14:04  |  John 09/05/08

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