BETHLEHEM - It is almost 3 A.M., and Peter, the owner of Cosmos, finally can crack a smile. The dance floor is packed and the alcohol is flowing. George, a real clubber, is celebrating his birthday, and cannot seem to stop clapping his hands and whistling. Sirakis, meanwhile, shows off his dance moves. Peter pours himself a shot and to the sounds of a song by Nancy Ajram says: "Write it down, there's no other place in the world like Cosmos, none." A few hours earlier, things looked rather different.

It is 11 P.M. on Saturday, and the streets of Beit Jalla are deserted. Two shuhada [Muslim martyrs] were buried today: a local Islamic Jihad commander and a 13-year-old boy killed by Israel Defense Forces fire on Friday. The entrance to Cosmos is empty but for a few bouncers similar in size and appearance to their colleagues at Haoman 17. The resemblance to Israeli clubs stops there, however.

Strike in Bethlehem

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Peter al-Housh, a Bethlehem businessman, bought the place abut 18 months ago, put in about $80,000 and opened the only disco currently operating in the Palestinian territories. Every Thursday and Saturday night, partygoers from throughout the West Bank and Israel come to "tear up" the dance floor, but this Saturday the party was in danger. Islamic Jihad and Hamas activists announced a general commerce strike to mark the killing of their commander and made sure the stores remained closed. Armed Hamas men prevented a concert from taking place in the city, and Peter feared a similar visit to his establishment.

"I bought the place when there was almost nothing here," Peter relates. "I built a beautiful bar and a DJ booth, we renovated the dance floor and put in appropriate lighting. I also invest in ads on radio stations in Bethlehem and Haifa.

"I have an alcohol license from the PA. I try to maintain a respectable atmosphere here, that's why I invest in security, too." Peter explains that he has not been to Haoman 17, "because it's a members-only club and they didn't let me in. But I've been in other places in Jerusalem like The Underground."

Still, Cosmos does not look like any place in Israel. A few dozen tables surround the dance floor, which strongly resembles the set from "Saturday Night Fever." A disco ball overhead refracts the light as it turns and the DJ booth overlooks the dance floor. The bar is relatively small but quite well-stocked.

Hesitant opening

The first customers come at about 23:30 P.M. The group consists of locals and a few foreigners - employees from foreign embassies in Jerusalem and international organizations. The cover fee is only NIS 30.

Peter sees that things are a little slow and takes to the booth. The song "Big in Japan" brings Mariana and

Giorgia, both Italian, to the floor. They are joined by Eric, a Finn who lives in Beit Hanina. This is not his first time here. For Eric, the big advantage of Cosmos over the Jerusalem clubs is, "There aren't any Jews here, but don't write that. I'm kidding, I don't have a problem with Jews, only with Israelis." Giorgia also says she prefers Cosmos, and would not want to go out in Tel Aviv because she's not interested in Israelis.

The locals look on from the side. While the foreigners groove to Abba and Boney M, the locals appear cautious, even a little afraid. The curtains over the windows provide a sense of refuge from the problems outside but nevertheless reality seems to be trying to intrude. Customers are thin on the ground, and even the smoke machine is unable to fill up the emptiness. A little later, the group of locals leaves and the bouncers outside leave their post. Peter fears the deaths and the fighting have killed the party. Even the popular Nancy Ajram song playing on the sound system does not cheer him up. "The whole world is ruined, you see, it's all finished," he complained.

The turnaround

Shortly after 1 A.M., George enters. The clubber from Beit Jalla, who comes to Cosmos every week, is turning 28. Noticing Peter's worried face, he tells him, "Relax, in a minute everyone will be dancing, you'll see." And like the pied piper of Hamlin, George is followed by groups of revelers. Most are from Bethlehem, others from East Jerusalem and the vicinity. Then a particularly colorful figure enters. Sirakis, a Spanish national who lives in the city, came out of the closet and goes to Cosmos regularly. He is wearing a black shirt open to the navel and shoes with black and white stripes, and he begins dancing immediately.

A beautiful young Palestinian woman in a form-fitting flowered dress dances with passion, mesmerizing a number of men. The scene would be incomplete without the local celebrity, and so Michel Nijam, a famous singer from Ramallah, graces the club with his presence. He has a regular table, and on Friday he performs at the place. Surrounded by friends, he looks at the crowded dance floor. The bartenders try to keep up with the orders, and Sari, a young man from Bethlehem, explains, "We shouldn't have come here today because of the strike but we did. We only want to have fun, to clear our heads of all the news." George smiles, aware that he has kept his promise. "What a fantastic birthday," he declares.

No one is having sex in the bathrooms or doing lines of cocaine, but Cosmos once again proved itself. For a few hours, at least, young Palestinians and foreigners talked only of parties, dancing and love. The occupation, the intifada and the shuhada remained outside for tonight.